A look at the 2.5 Innards - DIY 20K mile service, including valve clearance check and shim replacement

Part 3

  • Check valve clearances. Remember that the decompressors will throw off the readings on the adjacent exhaust valves. Simply rotate the decompressors so that they do not press down on the bucket, then take your reading.
  • If you're out of tolerance the easiest thing to do (if you don't want your bike sidelined waiting for shipping) is to buy a shim kit from Hot Cams ahead of time, although most of the sizes you'll never use.
  • I like this calculator for determining shim sizes, but since you'll want to work from the right side of the bike for both inlet and exhaust cams, I find the numbering going from left to right backwards for the piston order and it's easy to make mistakes. I disregard his numbers and just fill the blanks in the same order I see the cams- so from left to right is 6,5,4,3,2,1. This will make sense when it's in front of you. Double/triple check your measurements and calculations- it's very easy to make a mistake. Basically if the clearance is too tight, for example, you want to go with a smaller shim to make the gap larger.
  • Remove the camshafts in order to replace the shims.
This video shows the procedure for replacing the shims and setting the camshaft timing.

See, it all just takes 3 minutes, five seconds to do.... 🤣

After that you're most of the way home.
  • Reinstall the cam cover and new spark plugs. More on that here...
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Before attempting to install the cover be sure to slide up and spin this aggravating bracket out of the way...
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  • Replace the clutch cover and reinstall the clutch slave unit.
  • Replace the fluid in the clutch. Easy to do, but do not let the level fall below the reservoir or you'll run into the problems that I did- not so bad once you know the fix. If your mind wanders too, the solution is described in my nightmare post here.
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  • Install the radiator and overflow jug. This will be fairly easy if your hands are the size of a twelve-year old Thai girl. Follow the order of things in the manual- it makes a difference.
  • If your throttle bodies are out of sync reinstall the gas tank, install the fuel pump fuse, and connect the battery. The blank for adjusting the throttle bodies is visible with the plenum off. I believe it is a 30 torx security head. Remove it, connect TuneECU and fire up the bike. The adjuster is a small hex located three or more inches deep inside the hole where the blank was. One of those folding tools with the various sizes is long enough to reach.
  • Install new air filter
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  • Reinstall the plenum (you'll need to remove the tank and disconnect the battery again if you had to adjust your throttle bodies).
  • Install new fuel filter. More on that here...
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  • Reinstall the gas tank (what a PIA compared to the older Rockets, along with the entire valve adjustment process) and instrument panel
  • Connect the battery
  • Go riding......
hello @Journeyman

i think its time to check Clutch fluid, I am betting that it has gone black again with 30-45days of changing it as it keeps happening to me at least,
when you get a chance and take a photo after you remove the clutch fluid tank cap on handlebar and check/take photo.
 
I am wondering how many folks have needed valve adjustment at 20k service? It seemed that most of the 2.3L engines didn’t require it until past 50k and even then it wasn’t universal.
 
Well I needed 9 valves adjusted at the 32k km point. Triumph said that that wasn't an issue. Hmm. I'm at 59k kms now and very interested to see what the story will be when I drop it in for the next major service.
 
Well I needed 9 valves adjusted at the 32k km point. Triumph said that that wasn't an issue. Hmm. I'm at 59k kms now and very interested to see what the story will be when I drop it in for the next major service.
did i read it correctly? you have 59K kms on 2.5 rocket ?
 
@Journeyman I will need to remove the head of a 2.5L Rocket 3 GT at Bonneville Salt Flats in August.

Can you please provide information on that process and what special tools will I need ?
240mm X 24mm x 4.93mm - Camshaft Timing Bar T3880502

Crankshaft Locking Pin (T3880501)
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Timing Chain Tensioner (T3880651)

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0.6Nm 0.6 Torque wrench



O ring for the cam chain tensioner (T3601276)

Hot Cams 9.48mm Complete Shim Kit HCSHIM02 for Arctic Cat DVX 400 ATV Honda TRX ATV Kawasaki

Wright Tool 9530 25-Blade Master Feeler Gauge ( best on market Made in USA) PS, dont cheap on this buying chinese its very important as its in mms we dealing here

Triumph Coolant

new Engine OIl

New Oil filter

These are tools as far I know, I may have missed few things but hey Top Man JourneyMan can chime in.
 
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@Journeyman I will need to remove the head of a 2.5L Rocket 3 GT at Bonneville Salt Flats in August.

Can you please provide information on that process and what special tools will I need ?

Sorry- I've not been that deep on the 2.5, only the Roadster in an earlier life. This will get you down to the head bolts and other information you'll need for reassembly after the head. Be sure to send pictures when you do....

The Cylinder Head removal/installation process is pages 328 -334 in the manual. It appears that the head bolts are torx bolts.
Barrels and Piston removal/installation process is pages 340 -344.

Waiting on @Neville Lush to come up with a piston/cam combo for the 2.5s for future plans
 
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