A look at the 2.5 Innards - DIY 20K mile service, including valve clearance check and shim replacement

I am curious as to how much it holds down those exhaust valves
Measuring with and without would give us the answer if possible?
 
It's a much bigger job than on the 2.3s, especially if you need to swap shims.

Several of my clearances were out of spec, just waiting on another part from Hermy's.

I'd sure like to know how much Triumph charges for the 20K service, with or without any shim replacements.
which other part you are waiting for from Hermy's?

I got the quote from one of dealership in Michigan (Triumph). it was 1300usd + parts and thats only for camshaft timing chain check and valve check, no other service included, if there is need for adjustment in valve or timing then add more USD
 
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I am curious as to how much it holds down those exhaust valves
Measuring with and without would give us the answer if possible?

@TURBO200R4 is referring to the "Decompressors." Note: I've been talking with @TURBO200R4 and @Rocket Scientist about these things. They're not on the 2.3 bikes. Apparently, they're there to make starting the bike easier by keeping the exhaust valves open slightly.

I was getting huge clearance readings on 3 valves (as in what's destroyed in my engine?) and @Rocket Scientist suggested it could be the decompressors, which it turns out was correct!
IMG_2871.jpg


Important: NOT mentioned anywhere in the service manual is anything about the decompressors, other than listing them in a diagram of the camshafts. It does not give any instruction on disabling them when checking valve clearances, which it turns out that you do need to do. You simply rotate them to their neutral position.

The recommended gap for exhaust valves is .18 - .23. Without rotating the decompressors I was getting readings of .635 on those three valves! Thoughts of pulling the heads was keeping me up at night. But, with this knowledge, I just checked one after rotating the decompressor and it was now in spec. The other two should also be at, or close to, spec.

Here's a 4 second video I made that shows how they work...

IMG_2870 copy.jpg

Update: I've re-shimmed, as needed, all but those three valves- hopefully, they are already in spec. I got a shim kit from HotCams.

I'm waiting on the Timing Chain Tensioner tool (T3880651) to come from Hermy's. I didn't catch that it was a special tool, as it sounds a lot like the Camshaft Drive Chain Tensioner, which is your bike's chain adjuster. This special tool is needed to apply just the right amount of tension (.6 Nm) on the chain before you tighten down the camshaft sprockets (which are adjustable on the shafts). You also need a torque wrench that hits that small number to attach to the tool. Triumph sells that for some crazy amount, or you can get one from Amazon, as I did.

Several Triumph bikes require these tools to correctly set the Camshaft Timing. The manual jumps all over the place, from section to section, making this the most confusing step, but I found a video of a guy working on a Tiger where it is explained well, here...

More later, but until then, just waiting on the tool and wishing that I could ride....
 
I'm sorry people, but this "new" engine looks like a royal pain in the you know what! We had enough problems with the silly detent spring, now look at that tiny thing on the "de-compressor". And all the added electronics and gizmo's. But I guess if you can afford over 20 grand for a motorcycle, you can afford to take it to a dealer to work on, when something goes wrong.:cool:
 
I'm sorry people, but this "new" engine looks like a royal pain in the you know what! We had enough problems with the silly detent spring, now look at that tiny thing on the "de-compressor". And all the added electronics and gizmo's. But I guess if you can afford over 20 grand for a motorcycle, you can afford to take it to a dealer to work on, when something goes wrong.:cool:

Neither, in my case- I bought it used with 240 miles and I've yet to see a used one listed that low. Nowhere close to 20K. As for being able to afford to take it to the dealer, you'll need to ask someone else.

Having said that, you are right about the PIA factor. The one thing easier is removing the rear wheel- easy as a car tire. And changing the tire yourself is a lot easier, getting it on and off the rim - once again, saying no to the dealer cause I'm too cheap and don't trust their work. But, I'd gladly trade that for being able to raise the tank, check plugs, valves, and replace shims as easily as I could on the Roadster. :thumbsup:

The way you dial in the timing on the 2.5s is an improvement though- it's just getting to it 😖
 
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And I'd love to have that easy to remove wheel, and tire change. Waiting on the heat to go away here in SW Florida, so I can do that to my 05. It's a bit of work on the older models for sure.
 
So are you putting the exhaust cams back in to check those clearances before reassembly in case they are out of spec. It would worry the crap out of me wondering what the clearance on those exhaust valves were. Seems like a good time to check those again.
 
I am curious as to how much it holds down those exhaust valves
Measuring with and without would give us the answer if possible?
Me wonders if those decompressors are as accurate as the cam lobes. They don't look it to me as if each one could have different clearances depending on the opening travel arc.
 
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