A Labor of Love; aka building a Rocket III Speedster

Perhaps timing via flying magnets mounted into clutch basket cover or an attached plate. Sensor mounted internally on front engine cover. A missing tooth scheme mounted there would work too. I have some ideas on the intake system if interested.

Who will be your machining and fabrication source?
 
Perhaps timing via flying magnets mounted into clutch basket cover or an attached plate. Sensor mounted internally on front engine cover. A missing tooth scheme mounted there would work too. I have some ideas on the intake system if interested.

Who will be your machining and fabrication source?

Most of it uses existing hardware, the things I need done I'm having cut at cutandsend. Miss typed, Hall not VR, the OEM crank sensor and wheel.

Option 1: Home signal will be the OEM map sensor plumbed to cylinder 1 bottom of stock TB port. Ideally, the high compression will help give a distinct pulse due to proximity that stands out from #2 and #3 pulses.

Option 2: The first alternative should the pressure pulse be too subtle with a shared plenum is a Hall sensor mounted on the Cam cover over a cylinder 1 cam lobe. Many people have had success with OEM cams doing so, but less success with sharp aftermarket cams. Nevilles cam has a nice OEM style lobe (just bigger), so it may work nicely for this.

Option 3: If that's still too subtle or noisy, I'll draw up a L shaped bracket to mount on the front of the cam gear and run a Hall sensor to pick that up, only 1 tooth is needed and it can be anywhere within 180 BTDC #1.

Nice thing about the system is that it only needs home for the first 8 engine cycles, then ignores it after that as one configuration option, but if needed home trigger can be used at low rpm only or full range in worst case. So ideally I only need it to sync up while at cranking and fire up RPM, after that as long as crank signal is clean it'll fire full sequential without issue.

For intake I am thinking to gut a set of stock (unbored out) TBs of everything while keeping the vacuum ports and stripping all shafts/sensors etc off them. This gives me convenient injector/rail mounting.

Then having a aluminum plate welded to them as well as short aluminum bellmouths, running a gasket around the edge of the aluminum plate and using a fiberglass form pulled from the OEM box exterior as the other sides of the box. Then glassing in a DBWTB mounting plate on the front radiator facing side. Air filter will end up sitting just ahead/above of radiator on a short straight tapering runner from 4" diameter filter to 60mm or 68mm TB blade. MAP/IAT signal to ECU from DBWTB port.

As I understand plenums, this will have the double effect of resonance tuning per port due to plenum reflection and functional ram air due to the choke point at the DBWTB opening being smaller than the open air intake diameter.

I could, of course, be way off, but this setup kind of mimics what I see a lot of OEMs doing, just free of their NVH/emissions considerations.
 
Diving down the rabbithole, it seems I've picked the perfect time to do this. Haltech just released the Nexus R3 VCU in March this year.
R3 integrates 3 axis IMU internally, PDM, ECU, WB Controller, and datalogger in one rather small box, perfect for a motorcycle retrofit, Paired with the display I think we're all set, no other boxes required anymore.

I've looked at the other companies and Haltech is absolutely killing everyone on the market right now on the software side of things for a privateer effort type thing.

Next step is to map out all I/O in a template and ensure everything has a home on the VCU as far as both engine and body harness goes.
 
Everything seems to fit with room to spare for growth :p

Nexus-RIII-Diagram-1.png
Nexus-RIII-Diagram-2.png

Fairly certain this covers everything required/desired with 6 dual use circuits left and 1 analog input left. The gauge pack expands this connectivity even further as well for things like heated grips, a steering axis linear motion rod, etc.
Can dump all the relays under side covers, OEM harness, Fuse box, Keihin ECU. Retain the ABS module and wire this in and it should replace all of that nonsense with a keyless ignition that can still be keyed if desired. Lights all controlled inside the VCU so no need for any of that nonsense.

Still need to confirm in the manual I'm using channel all types properly. Will whip up the base configuration file tomorrow per this diagram.
 
Last edited:
Yep, it's not cheap, nor is the dash lol.

On the other hand, total up all the Dyno time I've paid for and....the numbers aren't that different.

Building restomods has never been cheap. The RIII design is old enough to drink :)

There are cheaper options that could achieve 95% of the functionality like a microsquirt+on.blue+m-pro display. I am, however, beyond the point in life where I settle because I'll forever lust for ther option I didn't chose.
 
Last edited:
Working on the base configuration. Haltech is a company I'd go work for as a programmer in a heart beat, no questions asked.

Every option has a useful and descriptive ? field, unlike so many. Bar none, it's the best ECU software I've ever used. So looking forward to getting this installed and having a bike that works the way I want it (and tell it) to work.

Also, my proclivity for posting documentation of modifications on the forum has been very helpful when looking back at exactly what I did and what I used, for example, I had completely forgotten I'd switched to Bosch EV14 450cc injectors instead of the Black Ops 550s, helpful when configuring the software.
 
Back
Top