215/ 55r 16

He did say IME.
An estimation is a guess, right?

Us evil Darksiders have to stick together, ya know.
 
Yup...poke a little fun at one aussie and the rest of them come out like chickens on a june bug.
 
The one that says under inflation results in excessive heat build up.

ime - a pumped up V rated M/C tyre gets WAY hotter than a marginally underinflated Z rated CT.

You just made that up. Proves my point beautifully. Thanks.

So when I prove you're confounded - I made it up. Sounds like old Doctors who said that Breast Cancer can only be cured by a full radical mastectomy.

I have btw actually discussed this with a guy who designs tyres for a living before I decided to try. He's worked on the GP circuit as tyre advisor. I know at what G-Force the tyres will loose traction. Do you?

Also - I fly in the face of conventional DARKSIDE wisdom and run my CT at mfrs recommend pressure for that tyre for the given weight of the vehicle.

I measured temperatures for a good year. If you think I make up crap just to show a bigot he's wrong then you are confounded.

I see a problem, identify the options via extensive research, and look for solutions. It's called applied science.
 
I did actually have my tongue planted firmly in my cheek when I said you made it up. But it does seem unlikely, lets put it that way. Interesting that you run your car tyre at higher pressure than 'recommended' to enable a decent contact patch on the road. Wouldn't that mean you are in fact running on the corner a lot, especially when you need it most? Sort of a catch 22....

I have never said you shouldn't use a car tyre. I've only said I wouldn't and I object to false claims that they're safer. I have never doubted some of the claimed advantages either but they represent a compromise on safety (not grip) that no amount of economising can justify. Plus they simply are unsuited to the way I use my bike.

I apologise for venturing into this hollowed territory and will refrain from further comment.
 
No not really.

Thing is that PV tyres are designed to operate with MORE sidewall deformation than M/C tyres. Lower pressure would allow more deformation and actually put more rubber on the road fully banked - but I seldom ride in the wet and my reasons for putting a CT on the rear were very simple. Autonomy. If the thing was twice the price but lasted twice as long - I'd do it. The corners soon round off a bit too.

I wanted to be able to do a 10,000Kms trip without having to sit waiting for a new tyre stuck in the out reaches of Eastern Europe (the Carpathian Mountains to be precise) unable to speak the local language (and dodging vampires). As it turned out this trip never happened due to family tragedy.

I must ride fairly hard compared to some as I get about 6000Kms out of tyres FRONT AND REAR. Metzlers and Avons. The rear R+D was an easy test - CT - others had done the leg work regarding sizes. The front is a real bugger - it's why I'm trying a harder higher speed rated rear MC tyre on the front. So far it's VERY VERY promising. Slightly narrower - and the cornering is markedly improved. 140/80ZR17 Avon Azaro.

In summer here (was about 40ºC) I have taken 1mm off a ME880 rear tyre in 200kms. Pretty close to 140kmh sustained speeds (100Kms each way) - Spanish motorway - but very aggressive tarmac and curves - I live in mountains. It was legal when I left home but not when I returned - I was displeased. Worn off the centre - not centreline. No stock anywhere in ALL SPAIN.

The rubber was literally peeling off in little balls. And you could dig rubber out with a fingernail a good 15-20 minutes after stopping. It also started to blue - i.e the oils boiled out of the rubber and discoloured. That's overheating. It's why I believe that a V rated tyre is simply not up to my riding style on my roads.

The CT I fitted is Z rated. Designed to support more heat.

Whilst it seems that there's less contact patch banked - it's actual more (a lot more at just off vertical - say up to 30º lean) but IT IS a different shape. It's a parallelogram rather than an oval. It looks odd banked as we're used to seeing a curve not a V against the ground.

This does - no doubt at all - change how it responds to the road - especially lines (tar lines) of demarcation between changes in camber that are in line with the direction of travel - we'll call this white lining - though ime it's black ones that are the worst. And it's only really noticeable at SLOW speeds.

But then I've ridden lots of MC tyres that do exactly the same thing. I have some Metzlers on my old Guzzi that I HATE for this very reason. They've just worn out thank god.

Now here's the kicker - I've read TRACK REPORTS (some really good stuff from OZ out there) that wide M/C tyres actually have less contact patch than slimmer ones banked over.

It's conjecture BUT I believe a 120/70 or 130/70 front and a 200/50 rear Z RATED would last far better (for my riding) than the current 150/80 and 240/50 V rated. My dilemma is whether I want to slash out for a 17" rear rim to prove my point. I don't have an ABS bike so can try - but it's a lot of cash. If I could find a 200/60ZR16 - I'd do it in a flash. This would be EXACTLY the same rolling circumference as a 240/50. There is an EXEDRA MAX but it's V and I doubt it'll fit the TRIUMPH rim as the rim's far too wide

The R3 is the only bike I've ever considered a CT. But really just because Triumph put form over function. It's a big heavy brute with shed loads of torque - death for rubber.