2012-No Headlights, tail running light, all fuses good...Now what?

No lucas parts
There is zero heritage and no comparison of a modern Triumph vs 60's/70's British electrical systems from bikes or cars
Most of the connectors are Japanese from world class suppliers like Sumitomo or US TE Connectivity (Tyco)
Harley utilize a lot of deutsch connectors made by TE but I would not rate these as any better quality necessarily than Sumitomo for example

Not to say there aren't issues (like the std/classic KeySwitch issue) - but that example won't be fixed by different grade of wires or quality of connector choice
 
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The relay would only account for the headlights, not the tail-light
Can you measure the voltage at both sides of Fuse 8 for me?
Do that with the fuse still in place - connect your meter with black probe on battery negative then touch the positive to the metal tabs on the top of the fuse, on both sides.
That will not only validate the Fuse but also give a data point whether there is voltage at that node, which can help point to whether problem up or down stream from there.

Just another sanity check please - were these LED headlights plug n play into the std H4 connectors, or did you modify the wiring at all to accommodate them?
And what brand/model of lights were they? Do they have a halo ring or anything that was powered to the Running Light Circuit?

Here is the Headlight Power Circuit for the R3R

Roadster_Headlight Circuit.jpg

If I may interrupt. I'm having a similar problem. I have a 2015 Roadster, just upgraded to Wisamic LEDs with halos. First turn of the key, my headlight fuse blew. Replaced it with another 5A, turned the key, it held, so I thought I was okay. Well I'm not too sharp and i didn't notice that my running lights were out, too. So a few days later I popped a 5A in that slot, turned the key, then blew my headlight fuse again. I pulled the lights out, taped up the connectors, and before putting back in the headlight housing, replaced the blown #8 fuse, turned the key, then blew the #10 fuse again. So, do I just need to get rid of the halo LED? I hope not because I really like it. Or did I likely pinch a wire within the shielding? Any advice is greatly appreciated.
 
If I may interrupt. I'm having a similar problem. I have a 2015 Roadster, just upgraded to Wisamic LEDs with halos. First turn of the key, my headlight fuse blew. Replaced it with another 5A, turned the key, it held, so I thought I was okay. Well I'm not too sharp and i didn't notice that my running lights were out, too. So a few days later I popped a 5A in that slot, turned the key, then blew my headlight fuse again. I pulled the lights out, taped up the connectors, and before putting back in the headlight housing, replaced the blown #8 fuse, turned the key, then blew the #10 fuse again. So, do I just need to get rid of the halo LED? I hope not because I really like it. Or did I likely pinch a wire within the shielding? Any advice is greatly appreciated.
What did you do with the small running lights in the original headlamps, it sounds like the positive wire on those connectors is shifting out on the headlamp bucket
 
Sorry..even after I disassembled the lights and had them hanging freely. There does seem to be some cloudy white streakiness at the back of my headlight housing. Nothing stands out to me looking at those small headlight connectors
 
Sorry..even after I disassembled the lights and had them hanging freely. There does seem to be some cloudy white streakiness at the back of my headlight housing. Nothing stands out to me looking at those small headlight connectors
If you removed the bulbs the wires in small connectors can sometimes touch each other. When smooshed back in behind the led lamp
 
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