10k mile service - DIY (also, Spark Plugs Not Tight & Wire Boots Not Pushed On!)

[TURBO200R4]

Made in Thailand. They left spacers out of my ABS module mount causing all kinds of issues... I'll not buy another made in Thailand or China.

Dang guy you need to take that one back and tell them to finish putting it together.

 

[Kiwicol]

Another awesome thread, thanks guys.

 

[Protonhound]

....continued.....

I was dreading the fuel filter replacement, but it turned out to be the easiest step by far.

Pull the assembly out carefully and disconnect the wire harness with the green and red wires to give you more room. Snip the zip ties holding the filter. Note the direction of the arrow on the filter. Remove the chrome bracket and slip the hose clamps on each side of the filter down. Pull the filter, replace and reassemble- easy!

Put the tank back on. Reattach the wiring harness, the bent hose from the evap canister to the tank, and carefully reattach the fuel line.

Go ride.

Had I paid the shop to do this I wouldn't have gotten to see the condition of the plugs and who knows if they would have struggled to get those boots back on.

After I reassembled it I noticed that the manual said to "Make sure the fly lead is routed between the fuel pump harness and the fuel pump bracket". I simply plugged it back in without routing it around stuff which gave the cable a little more slack than it had originally and it's not binding or rubbing against anything. Now I'm wondering if I need to take it a apart again just for that or if it's even important.

 

[lotus]

I've changed my plugs and gave routing a priority on reassembly. I wasn't aware of the manual suggestion. Just made sure no wires or hoses
were under tension around sharp edges. I wouldn't worry about it, unless you had nothing else to do. Enjoy riding it

 

[Kiwicol]

Thinking about it, I can't see how it could make any difference where it was routed, just that it's plugged in securely. But if the manual says ensure it goes here, then there must be a reason for it, but buggered if I can think of what it might be. If it's working ok now, I'd just leave it & reroute the next time you're in there.

 

[Protonhound]

I've changed my plugs and gave routing a priority on reassembly. I wasn't aware of the manual suggestion. Just made sure no wires or hoses
were under tension around sharp edges. I wouldn't worry about it, unless you had nothing else to do. Enjoy riding it

I was referring to the fuel level sensor fly lead that I unplugged temporarily when replacing the fuel filter. Of course I didn't take a picture beforehand but of well.

 

[Journeyman]

I was referring to the fuel level sensor fly lead that I unplugged temporarily when replacing the fuel filter. Of course I didn't take a picture beforehand but of well.

If it doesn’t interfere with the float I would think it’s ok.

 

[Protonhound]

If it doesn’t interfere with the float I would think it’s ok.

It interferes with nothing so it's probably just my OCD.

 

[Protonhound]

So far I have replaced the air filter, fuel filter and spark plugs, put everything back together and the beast lives. Putting the tank back on was not bad other than that squiggly hose going to the evap canister which resisted but I won. I'm saving the easy parts for last which is oil, oil filter, final drive oil and roller bearing lube.
I understand for the most part why things are where they are (difficult to get to) because there simply would be no other place to put them. I have to check again but when I looked at my throttle body values recently in tuneecu they were all showing the same and I'm sure the dealer would have gladly charged me for that nevertheless. I'm glad I decided to do this myself and now that I know how things are put together it'll be easier next time. Of course at 20k I get to adjust the valves and finally get into my clutch as well and when I do I'm replacing all plates and springs. A proper from the bottom up bleeding will be in order then too.