YSS shocks

[warp9.9]

Any recommendations for a similar adjustable setup for a touring?

No one makes the cartridges for the touring. Kevin Frazier has been working his over eith Race Tech components. He would be the man to have touring answer's. Oh and olbull is highly knowledgeable on all aspects of hooning around on Rockets. I will add that sytems with no compression adjustment are usually the ones that ask you your weight and weight of gear or in my case told me to gain some weight the springs are sized and then preset at the compression. They do come with spanners to make adjustments which I've not had to do. I'm pretty much a solo rider. Except for taking the wifey out for a chocolate banana side by side shake I wil say what Speedy told me about adjusting the high speed dampening. First make large adjustment like 6 or clicks so you notice it and which direction your going then from there you can work on finer adjustments. As for the progressive shocks and their auto adjustment I have never ran them. I do have a set on a rolling chassis pre 444 style but ive never tried them. Mostly because I am about 100 pounds lighter then the guy who road the bike so I figure the spring are probably heavy duty not scrawny duty. Sag is important. Just keep in mind if you run the max in the back and the smaller 140 or 150 in the front you just changed the way the bike sits so sag would probably be different. After all its putting more weight on the front end so I suspect the weight transfer affects the sag. I am not a suspension expert by any means. I have noticed the world of difference in my riding ability and comfort having the bike set up for me.

 

[Speedy]

The Progressive "auto adjust" feature is an accurate assessment of how they function, but highly misleading marketing hype nonetheless. All hydraulic shocks change dampening rate with a delta in velocity. Move the shock rod either in or out and the resistance will increase as you move it faster. Therefore, while Progressives have "auto adjust," so do all other brands. Any shock is manufactured with a capacity to dampen matched to its intended usage and that is to control the rate at which a compressed spring of a given rate returns to its static length. Thus a shock ideal for a 150lb/in rate spring is vastly different from one intended to control a 750lb/in rate spring. Additional to the spring rate, the amount of sprung and un-sprung weight in the system has an impact on how the shock is set-up.

Shocks with adjustable spring load via a cam or threaded tube but no other adjuster have a dampening profile that is not user adjustable. The only thing being adjusted is the ride height, more commonly known as sag. Shocks with a rebound adjuster generally allow the user to change low speed dampening in the extension or rebound direction only and that via changing the area of a bleed orifice. Higher end shocks may have both bleed area and blow-off spring preload changed via the adjuster. Shocks with both rebound and compression adjustment allow the user to change both compression and rebound dampening rates and usually only what is know as low speed dampening, meaning shock rod velocities under 3" second. Automatic high speed controls extend into the 24" /second velocity and beyond. Run over an abrupt 1-1/2" ledge, 2 x 4, or pot hole lip at speed and the shock velocity often exceeds 24" /second speeds. There can be very different dampening rate/speed curves or profiles set-up in a shock depending on the masses of the static and moving system components. Thus an automotive shock is not a good choice for use on a motorcycle even though the diameter, length and eyelets may be the same.

The front forks on conventional forks are really crude devices that use the bottoming cone as a means of hydraulically increases compression dampening only in the travel length equal to the cone's length. Cartridge style fork inserts function similar to the common rear shock. Inverted forks can range from rude and crude to very sophisticated dampening devices. High end rear shocks with remote reservoirs, high and low speed adjusters for both compression and rebound, and hydraulic preload adjustment are also very sophisticated devices which is apparent in their price. These are intended for racing and used by knowledgeable techs or engineers to dial in a bike to a particular track, the weather on that day, and rider preference. The average cycle rider gets lost in the range of variability available trying to adjust these and should consider their purchase a waste of money. However, vanity knows no bounds, so equipment is often purchased more for bragging rights than their actual utility.

 

[warp9.9]

Ya what speedy said oh and he worked on setting mine up and adjusting it. In a sense put the fun into the twisties for me

 

[warp9.9]

Oh and YSS makes different shocks some with 12mm hardened shafts and 16 mm shafts also some with adjustability in length about 10 mm if my memory is correct. So read before you buy so you get what you want.

 

[Stillserving]

OK, so the YSS shocks I'm looking at are these:

7890746 SHOCK ABSORBERS YSS TRIUMPH ROCKET III 04-15 RZ362-320TRL-50

7890746 SHOCK ABSORBERS YSS TRIUMPH ROCKET III 04-15 RZ362-320TRL-50

www.wrs.it

The current price is right around $350.

The 16mm shaft ones run around $575 and are the 366's not the 362's.
The 444's run around $650-700 pair

I have read a few others have been running the 362's and like them. Any thoughts whether they are good enough or should I wait for more cash to get better? I don't want to waste $350 and I plan on getting the Progressive springs for the front to pair with these. I don't have the cash to go full out like some of you, but don't want to spend money on something that's gonna suck either.

 

[Stillserving]

@1olbull just sent you a PM w/ an time sensitive question on the 444s.

 

[1olbull]

@1olbull just sent you a PM w/ an time sensitive question on the 444s.

Unless you are a 31" or more inseam, I'd stay with the OEM 12.5 inch length.

 

[Idaho Red Rocket 3]

@Speedy, What rear shock do you recommend for the Standard/Roadster ?

 

[Stillserving]

Unless you are a 31" or more inseam, I'd stay with the OEM 12.5 inch length.

I'm 32" inseam

 

[Speedy]

@Speedy, What rear shock do you recommend for the Standard/Roadster ?

Well that would depend on what type of use. YSS 362TRWL Twin at 330mm length for all out performance (list $1,069.00 pair) with adjustable rebound, compression, length and preload.
YSS Z362 TRL Twin at 330mm (list $499.00 pair) for good handling and comfort and with adjustable rebound.
Race Tech also makes excellent quality components but these are aimed at very high performance or racing. Thus they are very firm and highly adjustable.

Tech guys will generally steer you towards springs that are stiffer than needed. Softer is easier on the back and easier to setup than the really stiff stuff.
2.7 KG/mm = 150 LBS/in. is what I use when riding solo and 4.0 = 225 LBS/in when two up. Also with good rebound control you can setup with more set-in so the 330 or 13.0" long shocks can be set to ride at the same height as 12.5 long stock shocks. Reduce set-in and you get more aggressive turn in.