What have you done to your R3T lately

jake shaw said:

Today I balanced the throttle bodies, reset ISCV and reset adaptives. I have had a stutter at around 2000rpm @ constant throttle. No problem at idle or accelerating. Weather is not cooperating for test ride yet. I hope this sorts it.

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I did something like this couldn't find the fuse so I put a 6mm I think, bolt on the gas hose and cranked it, about 15 to 30 seconds, didn't want to overheat the starter too much, put it back together, did a compression test, all about 195psi and put iradium plugs in it, and it's running a lot better, I used to have that hesitation at around 2,000 rpm but I don't have a tach. Every once in a while, couldn't get it to do it all the time, now I think it's gone. Good luck, iradium plugs are expensive like $9 a piece but I found a discount at advance auto parts with 25% off plus $10 from rewards, got them about $6 a piece. Good luck
Does it do it constantly at 2,000 RPM? Mine just did it occasionally. If it's constantly I've heard the coil primary wire's get loose and you have to squeeze them together a little bit, not too much or you'll have a hard time getting them back on, clean the connections really good, I do it like this, works pretty good and finish off with some contact cleaner to dry them, and lather with dielectric grease, except fuel injector connections I heard they don't like too much grease, I'd be careful with the ECU too, I looked at mine, it was sealed really good and I just left it alone looked clean and I believe if it ain't broke don't fix it.


But if it was a vacuum leak I would imagine it would do it all the time, does it idle fine? Not ruff?
Well there's some good people on here I learned a lot just reading post's. I guess it could be a coil going bad but I don't see it only doing it at 2,000 RPM. I would look for dirty connections in the fuel system, pump, fuel pressure low, injectors, ignition, and controls. I cleaned a lot of connections the fuse blade's with a wire brush and contact cleaner and in the fuse block, I wouldn't put any water in there, maybe some grease but I didn't. Clean the connections on the relay's and grease, and just look for dirty corroded connectors and clean and grease everything. And step one disconnect the battery.
Well I just checked out your signature page, your a machinist, with a lot of nice bike's, I'm sure you have some ideas and probably know more about bike's than me
I hate intermittent problems, I couldn't reproduce mine, it would hickup once in a while. But always at low RPM

RockOn said:

No leather, other than the OEM leather pouch on the windshield and the one on the passenger backrest. I have the original vinyl seat which suits me fine with little to no maintenance other than vinyl cleaner/conditioner occasionally. As far as my seat getting wet, it doesn't. When caught in the rain my big fat butt keeps it dry and the wind keeps it off the passenger seat as long as I am moving and what little gets on there beads up and easily wipes away when back in the garage. I see mixed opinions on the Iridiums but glad to see your experience has been positive, so I may give them a go one of these days.

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I was just asking cause I heard leather will hold some moisture and I wanted to no if that's true.
Yeah try them if you don't like them you can always go back with new OEM plugs, I had them on a dresser and had some fruit leak and got everything wet including the box for the plugs so I cleaned them before I installed

My hesitation/stutter just started recently. At 2000 (I have a tach). Checked some voltages in TuneECU and all seemed fine. If the balance and resets don't fix it I will try the vacuum lines and coil connectors + new plugs. Thanks for the interest.

Just changed the rear Brake pads. (EBC). Drained the final drive and will refill.

Changed my oil 2 weeks ago, pretty black, I just picked the bike up in April the guy said it was done before the winter, I think he lied glad that's done.
Used Mobil 1 4T 10w40, I wonder how much the shop would charge for that I took out like 5 plugs and only had to take out 3, didn't read the manual till I had to get the torque specifications , but it took 5.5 quart's to fill it so I guess I did it right, that was almost exactly what the manual said it would take, I guess American oil filter wrench 2-27/32, 65-68 mm wouldn't get it off, and barely enough grip to put the new one on, I guess I'll dent the wrench a little with the old persuader, it's the cap 3/8 ratchet type and if that doesn't work I'll try some electrical tape inside, I guess I should have bought the better set, was like $5 for 6 of them, different sizes.
I think I'm going to change the final drive oil again before going out next season, it will have like 500 miles on it, but as dirty as the old stuff was, I'd like to get it fairly clear and I had to buy a gallon of the Mobil delvac full synthetic 75w90 gear oil and I think it takes like 6oz., So I think I have plenty .
Well hunkered down for the winter now, I envy you guys in the nice weather yr round, but glad I'm not outside working in it in the summer down closer to the equator . I was there, lost 35lbs. In 2 weeks and now I'm glad to be back to the 4 season's, but gained back about 50.
Well enjoy the winter, can't wait to ride again, I'm sure it will make it that much better in the spring .
Happy Holidays, Cheer's to the New Year

jake shaw said:

Just changed the rear Brake pads. (EBC). Drained the final drive and will refill.

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Seeing you are on Prince Edward Island I immediately thought, "Hey, I've been there!" Well, wrong again. After clicking on your location I see I was actually over 6000 km's away on the West coast of Canada in Prince Rupert, British Columbia. By the way, your brake work reminds me I had to drill a deep hole into the center of the pad pin head on my '06 right side caliper a few months ago. It was frozen solid. Impact driver couldn't budge it, even with map gas applied. Drilling out the Allen head and going deeper gave me enough surface area to break it loose with an extractor. New pin has anti-seize on it now.

I

Wdugan9080 said:

Changed my oil 2 weeks ago, pretty black, I just picked the bike up in April the guy said it was done before the winter, I think he lied glad that's done.
Used Mobil 1 4T 10w40, I wonder how much the shop would charge for that I took out like 5 plugs and only had to take out 3, didn't read the manual till I had to get the torque specifications , but it took 5.5 quart's to fill it so I guess I did it right, that was almost exactly what the manual said it would take, I guess American oil filter wrench 2-27/32, 65-68 mm wouldn't get it off, and barely enough grip to put the new one on, I guess I'll dent the wrench a little with the old persuader, it's the cap 3/8 ratchet type and if that doesn't work I'll try some electrical tape inside, I guess I should have bought the better set, was like $5 for 6 of them, different sizes.
I think I'm going to change the final drive oil again before going out next season, it will have like 500 miles on it, but as dirty as the old stuff was, I'd like to get it fairly clear and I had to buy a gallon of the Mobil delvac full synthetic 75w90 gear oil and I think it takes like 6oz., So I think I have plenty .
Well hunkered down for the winter now, I envy you guys in the nice weather yr round, but glad I'm not outside working in it in the summer down closer to the equator . I was there, lost 35lbs. In 2 weeks and now I'm glad to be back to the 4 season's, but gained back about 50.
Well enjoy the winter, can't wait to ride again, I'm sure it will make it that much better in the spring .
Happy Holidays, Cheer's to the New Year

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I have used a pipe wrench to loosen the oil filter before when the filter wrench wouldn't budge it.

RockOn said:

Seeing you are on Prince Edward Island I immediately thought, "Hey, I've been there!" Well, wrong again. After clicking on your location I see I was actually over 6000 km's away on the West coast of Canada in Prince Rupert, British Columbia. By the way, your brake work reminds me I had to drill a deep hole into the center of the pad pin head on my '06 right side caliper a few months ago. It was frozen solid. Impact driver couldn't budge it, even with map gas applied. Drilling out the Allen head and going deeper gave me enough surface area to break it loose with an extractor. New pin has anti-seize on it now.

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Yo I took my disks rotor's off to polish the wheels and stripped the Allen Head on one bolt, took me hours to get it out, didn't have to drill it, just forced the sae wrench in it and moving it back and forth with pb blaster added constantly and got it out enough I could use a cut off blade to make 2 flat's and got a wrench on it, what a bi**h, I was very careful after that not to strip another one , and it gets better tried to order a new one and they are discontinued , after I bought used rotors and bolts for front and back I posted on here and found you can get them titanium on eBay, in different colors even, and not really expensive, hey live and learn, I'll post first next time, been trying to get a windscreen lock, no go there, discontinued. And nobody can get them, I'm eventually going to try to retrofit one when I get the time, the cylinder shouldn't be a problem, and making a bracket maybe a couple tries, but I should be able to get it right , but making a cover to make it look like it's not a retrofit, that's what I can't figure out, if anybody can please post an idea, I may get lucky and find another model like it and retrofit it, I haven't really tried that hard yet, as I'm in a fairly safe spot, just worry when I'm not.
Oh and I found Gords aluminum metal polish works great, just follow the directions, my wheels had black spots in them, yes it took a couple days maybe 8 hrs totally both, plus I used 1000 grit to 3000 wet dry with gords as the wetting agent, buffing wheels on a cordless drill and gumout carb. Cleaner on the glue spots with 0000 steel wool. But man I got the before and after shots posted in this thread, n what a difference, almost like chrome very satisfied, maguliars did nothing.
I'm sure if they aren't from 2008 and black it would be a lot easier.
Happy Holidays

jake shaw said:

I

I have used a pipe wrench to loosen the oil filter before when the filter wrench wouldn't budge it.

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I used channel locks to get it off, the wrench is okay going on, just slipped a bit, a little persuader on the side and I think it will work great , and knew the channel locks would bugger it up. I had a regular steel strap wrench but it just wasn't small enough, I probably have a better one packed in my trailer storage, but with everything on top

jake shaw said:

I

I have used a pipe wrench to loosen the oil filter before when the filter wrench wouldn't budge it.

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I do virtually the same thing using channel lock pliers to crush and twist off the filter on my Harley with a hard to reach filter.