What Causes Key Switch Failure?

... will it help to do the test you suggested several months ago of using needle nosed pliers to bridge fuse 2 and 5 with the key on? ...

No - you are far past that stage of diagnosis now. It WILL come on if you bridge that so will not prove anything we don't already know.
 
Is there a significant possibility that the tune in the bike could have become corrupted resulting in my problems starting the bike?
 
 
DEcosse, I would like for you to make the bypass link for me.Please send payment info to me. Thanks.
 
The problem causing my R3T not to even light up has been found and it's just what DEcosse said at the beginning it most likely would be: the infamous white wire on the key switch side of the connectors. The mechanic told me he'd checked that wire (after DEcosse informed me that it was the most likely suspect) and that it was okay. A new key switch and 6 months later the problem repeats and the mechanic again tells me he has re-checked it and it's okay. Yesterday the shop owner hauled my bike in to try the connector bypass that DEcosse recommended. After he left, I pulled out the old key switch that was replaced 7 months ago and, for the first time, used a magnifying glass to inspect it (my near vision is lousy) and I saw clear scorching of the seal on the white wire in the male connector and light browning of that wire. The owner called me a couple of hours later to tell me what he found and I said "go ahead, but I already know the problem". He said a white wire had gotten so hot it melted so he replaced that section and installed new connectors. Apparently, the new connector's white wire/pin (that came with the new key switch) also became damaged from the same loose connection that damaged the first one, or maybe a damaged socket in the female connector, which had not been replaced, ruined the new wire/pin.

Thanks, again, DEcosse!
 
Good to get conclusive answer.
The problem of the new switch connector also failing almost certainly points to the prime mover being the female one on the main harness side; so important that one is replaced also.
Hopefully your man has a good crimping tool and the capability to re-terminate the new connector properly!

The good news is you could replace your original switch if you want the original key (but should replace that connector, or at least the one terminal) - and then you'll have spare switch, either way (but hopefully never need it!)
 


DEcosse, he told me he used connectors that are much heavier duty than those I'd ordered and that he replaced both of them. As far as his crimping skills, at this point, I'm generally skeptical. If it fries again I'll do as you once suggested and go to an auto electrician.
 
Pretty bizarre to have not used the oem connectors which are PLENTY big enough for the current application.
Means you have removed any possibility of a plug n play solution if ever needed down the road and now have a non standard main harness - sorry, would not have been my choice ....
 
FWIW, I had problems with my ignition not working sometimes, ran half a can of electrical contact cleaner through it, washed out tons of crud, been fine for a month and a half now.