Well that was a wasted afternoon!..Riser Install.

[Claviger]

I took the second route, ordered an Allstar 50100 adaptor, a black 3an 10mm banjo fitting with 10mm black banjo bolt and 30" 3an to 3an black braided line.

Will post results.

 

[Tripps]

Thought it was someone else, but in case it was you that wanted a pic of the Classic bars. Ah, shoot, must be in my phone,but I posted it in the other handlebar thread.

 

[Bedifferent]

The answer is move the line behind the top triple.

I think I've found an easy fix, and frankly, I'm shocked none of these companies have done it themselves.

Allstar Performance Steel Brake Line Adaptor Fitting -03 AN to 3/16" Brake Line - 2pk : 50100

and

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/rus-657072

= 5" extension.

I'll test this out, ordering it now.

EDIT: Removed some bitterness.

More lengths available here:
Competition Brake Hose - Brake and Clutch Hose - Russell Performance Products

Alternatively you can buy a 3an 10mm banjo fitting, and the allstar 50100 and then just buy any length 3an to 3an braided line.

I looked around on the internet trying to find a simple option to fit. Currently there is a 90 degree M10 banjo attached to the front master. If I only had 3 more inches I would be happy. I'm sure others here on the forum would say the same.

The is no simple way to get that by adding on to the current 90 degree banjo. I'll check out the sites a little more, but if I have to move the line behind the top triple that will be the simplest option. Not sure how I'm going bleed that line after removal since it ties back in to the modulator. Back to the manual to find out before I do anything.

 

[Claviger]

I looked around on the internet trying to find a simple option to fit. Currently there is a 90 degree M10 banjo attached to the front master. If I only had 3 more inches I would be happy. I'm sure others here on the forum would say the same.

The is no simple way to get that by adding on to the current 90 degree banjo. I'll check out the sites a little more, but if I have to move the line behind the top triple that will be the simplest option. Not sure how I'm going bleed that line after removal since it ties back in to the modulator. Back to the manual to find out before I do anything.

My parts should be here in a few days, I’ll take pics, it’s really not complicated, the 90banjo is a non issue.

Bleeding, well, I have an idea to avoid having to bleed the ABS module, will reserve until I’ve tried it.

 

[barbagris]

And what about the little red plastic piece attached around the lead ferrule on the lever end of the clutch cable? I had to destroy that to get the cable out of the lever. Is that critical?

It stops metal/metal contact - basically it is a bearing. New cable time.

 

[Navigator]

Am just starting on the process so now am scared

 

[Jag]

Am just starting on the process so now am scared

If you don’t have abs brakes, it shouldn’t be an issue.

 

[Bedifferent]

It stops metal/metal contact - basically it is a bearing. New cable time.

I knew that but I wondered how critical it would be running without it. I tried splitting a small nylon bushing and using that but it wouldn't quite fit the opening. I lubed it up and put it back together. It still feels the same pulling the clutch. I have another new Barnett cable but it is not the extra 1 1/2" in length so I didn't put it on. Still pondering the situation.

I guess I'll see what the feedback is before I decide. I was just curious to see if others had run without it.

 

[rash_powder]

I had trouble mounting my Rivco risers on an 08 R3T. They sent me the wrong blocks TWICE. The first time I didn't notice, so I had everything taken apart before I noticed that I simply could not mount the risers as they were NOT the Touring units. Once I got the right ones, no troubles at all. NOTHING should have to be disassembled on the Touring bars to mount the risers.

Double check you got the right ones. They should be a gently curving piece, not a block.

 

[Bedifferent]

My parts should be here in a few days, I’ll take pics, it’s really not complicated, the 90banjo is a non issue.

Bleeding, well, I have an idea to avoid having to bleed the ABS module, will reserve until I’ve tried it.

Eagerly awaiting your solution and feedback. I have tha Dealer Service Tool that they talk about in the manual installed on my laptop, but it would be nice if I could avoid the procedure. I suspect even a small amount of fluid loss will put air in the line somewhere and since that line runs back to the module...ouch. It would be simple without ABS. ABS is nice... but a pain!