Valve cover gasket?

Gregger said:

I think the trick to keep the gasket from sliding out is to make sure both gasket surfaces (head and valve cover) are free of any oil or gasket sealer that would cause the gasket to slip. In other words, the surfaces need to be dry. Torquing the fasteners also needs to be done evenly in a crisscross fashion, gradually increasing the torque to spec. Fully torquing down a single bolt to spec, then progressing to the next, etc etc will leave you with a mess.

I've had my vc cover off multiple times without changing gaskets with no leaks. The only sealer I have used is a dab in the corners to hold it in place but even that isn't needed if the gasket is flattened because it has a shoulder to catch the metal.

The only time my vc cover gasket leaked was during the first 500 kms. All the bolts were loose and needed to be snugged up. Since then, no issues.

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Smitty81 said:

Hello Gents,

I noticed that a bit of gasket has bulged out near the top of the engine on my R3R, just slightly forward of the front-most cylinder on the right-hand side. A few of questions about this. Is it the valve cover gasket I'm looking at? Is this kind of thing typically covered for repair under the factory warranty? And most importantly, is it at all safe to keep riding like this? It's 40 miles or so to the shop. At present it doesn't appear to be leaking oil.

I'd appreciate any input. Thanks!

Gasket

• Smitty81
• Sep 4, 2018

Gasket Close-Up

• Smitty81
• Sep 4, 2018

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Grant cook said:

I had the same problem on mine at 10k. I replaced my self and follow the torque specs is important. No sealer just clean well. I replaced the spark plugs at the same time. Up to 17k now and no leaks

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Bedifferent said:

I'm still getting some weeping in the same area. Maybe a drop or so after a couple of hours riding. Enough to wet the block in the area. No bulging of the gasket and when I check it always appears completely dry around where the gasket seals. I'm still debating and pondering on what to do. Watching and waiting I guess is all I can do at the moment, but it really does not appear to be the gasket.

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Grant cook said:

That's strange. Did you replace your self?

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Bedifferent said:

I bought a new gasket, but I have not replaced it yet as I can see absolutely no evidence the gasket is the problem. The gasket area always feels bone dry when I check. I cleaned the block really good today with alcohol and and brake cleaning solvent. I am trying some RTV compound to seal around the block area itself to see what happens. I hope it is not a head issue. It is not so bad as I couldn't live with it. but I still don't like the evidence of oil weeping. Most of it seems to dissipate away from engine heat, however over time it will pond a little in the block openings of the area.

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warp9.9 said:

I see the difference between the two oils, wonder what would happen running both 50/50. I've been wanting to try motul but the 300V not readily available in 15w50 off the shelf so I've been sticking with Red Line oil. Not because its american made but because it was Motul 300V and Red Line that Mega cycle cams spoke highly about.

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Lemieuxfan said:

Warp- I ran the 10w40 which dealership now echo'd is recommended by triumph it shifted very smooth but i believe it ran very hot which crimped my seal early. I'm running 7100 Motul which i feel is a step up or 2 from the Castrol its a good oil.

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Grant cook said:

I'm sure it's the gasket. It's quite common. If you have the new gasket put it on. No sealer though. Mine is dry as a bone since I replaced it.

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