Unhappy with my dealership service experience.....

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TRIICK....

Bear in mind I did bring in, to the dealers chagrin, my own tires, pads and plugs from flip. What I am most shocked about is not the fact that the plugs were not changed-is that when the owner gets on the phone and I say" Well if the positions were reversed; I would ask you to bring the bike back in and lets check it out". After saying that...crickets chirped.

This guy was sorta torqued off that I brought in a non 150/80 front and when ever I would mention R3O the wife would say "don't listen to those guys..they don't know what they are doing"..To which I would joke and ask for her number and ask if I could call at 11P and ask how to get the seat off.

This is a small town 3-4 person dealership and I tell you if I am a tech changing plugs I want all the dust off the top of the engine/boots before I pull the plugs so it does not fall into the cylinder.

What ever business you may be in and I started, owned and sold a 175 employee one-you do not leave a client disgruntled as it will revolve back to affect you. Matter of fact the day I picked up my R3 the was a R3O forum member sitting there waitng for his rear B-Stone to be replaced.

I guess what puzzles me is that no call back occurred and I was not rude nor did I berate the owner-I just gave him the chance to make it right by bringing the bike back in for a look.

Guess there is enough business and disdain for us DIY'ers that that call is not going to happen....

Now how to get those plugs out without "Rube Golberging" the plug wrench from the Under Seat Tool Kit I do not have.....

Attached is a few pics of the Rocket fuel line...That was the only part I got back-even though I asked him to save all parts.

I am just grateful for this forum as this is the facts and friends are at-not some dealership.

I am grateful to all of the R3O members that have been patient and helpful...I really mean that sincerely.

Cheers...Greg
ditch the filtering system install k&n or better a ramair filter and the spark plug job become a simple procedure I did and very happy it is done
 
ditch the filtering system install k&n or better a ramair filter and the spark plug job become a simple procedure I did and very happy it is done
Wow....I watched the RamAir. Vid on YouTube. What an improvement! Gotta get one! Thanks for all the ideas guys....Now to find a RamAir!....The K and N looks good too but better to get that IAT as far away from the cylinder head and in the airflow.
 
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Wow....I watched the RamAir. Vid on YouTube. What an improvement! Gotta get one! Thanks for all the ideas guys....Now to find a RamAir!....The K and N looks good too but better to get that IAT as far away from the cylinder head and in the airflow.
YOU want the AIT sensor in the air flo that your taking into the engine not as far away from the head as possible .
 
THE 4040 EXTREME K&N filters will flow more air than the RAIMAIR filter
maybe true but my answer was regarding the ease of installation and bear claw retention I do not think the difference in air flow would matter to an average rider me included
 
maybe true but my answer was regarding the ease of installation and bear claw retention I do not think the difference in air flow would matter to an average rider me included
WELL if you dont care about airflow then it doesnt matter
 
WELL if you dont care about airflow then it doesnt matter

IMFAST....

Bit vexed on the IAT statement.....I want my IAT in the Ambient air temp not heatsoaked. With the K and N where is the IAT broken out to? The RAMAIR, AFAIK is going to pick up alot of airflow under the bearclaw and the thermistor of the IAT is inches away from the massive ambient airflow not only moving across the RAMAIR but into it.

What am I missing here? BTW..what are you using to control your AFR with your K and N's? I am thinking on using a Dolbreck AFR+.

Thanks for the input and let me know where that IAT sits on your K and N install...

Cheers...G
 
That's one way of doing it but you risk messing up the gap and cross threading. A little piece of runner tube over end let's you ensure the gap doesn't messed around as you lower it down and you can start the threading by hand, ensuring no crossthreading.

Just one of those things, usually tossing them in is fine, but I'll use a hose thankyou.
I always turn plugs anticlockwise till i feel the thread click, then its safe to wind in, avoids cross threading , anyone else do that ?
 
I always turn plugs anticlockwise till i feel the thread click, then its safe to wind in, avoids cross threading , anyone else do that ?
Sounds like a good method....Do they still use that huge airbox tupperware setup on the 2013?
I get why they do it from a physics point of view as the IAT is seated in large volume of isolated fluid(air) that does not conduct heat well(thanks to the tupper tank) and thus heatsoak the thermistor. Great idea in theory..not so great for serviceability. But hey just ordered my RAMAIR and next up is the DobecK AFR+ and all that tupperware is getting ripped out.

Man I get off tangent.....
 
I use a spark plug socket with the rubber insert in it, the plug sticks in the socket and won't fall out. Then I use an extension long enough so that you can put your hand around it to give some counter pressure so you don't break the spark plug. Don't for get to tape the socket to the extension bar so you can pull it off the plug and not leave the socket down in the head. Also when you pull the boot you squirt a little compressed air down the hole, of course after you have cleaned the head of dust an debris. Rember their are two different torque values for the plugs, one for a used plug and a different value for a new plug. If you have done it enough you can feel the difference.
 
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