TuneEcu Comments

Battersea said:

Well because the tables in that tune are for a more open exhaust and my logic says the fuelling would need to be increased over the whole operating range, which they do. I see it that this is why the values in the cells that cover higher revs and air pressures are larger than the standard 20215 tune.

I don't see what I would gain by putting more fuel in at higher revs when the standard tune is ok at that part of the rev range. Am I missing something?

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I'll buy that. I was just looking at 20215 and 20219 which are standard Triumph tunes for the Classic with stock and TOR/cat bypass exhausts (the tunes for the R3 standard are the same). The difference in the L tables is that 20219 is richer in the L tables from 1400-2400rpm and MAP from 424-730 mb. Why don't you try the 20219 L tables?

Note that the values for column 1 (MAP = 0) are zero. Wayne Tuneboy put values in the 600's in this column into the 20050 decel tune. If the 20219 L tables don't work, you might try adding the 600's in the first column.

Also, it isn't clear what's going on because the stock exhaust shouldn't be doing this.

dougl said:

I'll buy that. I was just looking at 20215 and 20219 which are standard Triumph tunes for the Classic with stock and TOR/cat bypass exhausts (the tunes for the R3 standard are the same). The difference in the L tables is that 20219 is richer in the L tables from 1400-2400rpm and MAP from 424-730 mb. Why don't you try the 20219 L tables?

Note that the values for column 1 (MAP = 0) are zero. Wayne Tuneboy put values in the 600's in this column into the 20050 decel tune. If the 20219 L tables don't work, you might try adding the 600's in the first column.

Also, it isn't clear what's going on because the stock exhaust shouldn't be doing this.

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I have compared the two tunes and the L tables have relatively little differences so it might be worth giving them a try.

Looking at the Tuneboy 20050 again (and again, and again ) I'm more coming to the conclusion that those tables were set using a dyno and are specific for one particular engine that maybe had an anomaly with the centre pot, each of the L tables are quite different and I cant see someone coming up with those kind of variances without data from a analytical source. The 20215/20219 comparison seems to support this as the differences across all three L tables are identical and probably arrived at from calculation rather than physical analysis.

Going back to the 20050, your comment on the 600+ values in the 0 AP columns is interesting as I seem to remember a post from Pig9r that said something about introducing a bit of fuel in 0 column cells, but I thought he was referring to throttle position . Anyway, this is the first thing I will try - it will be a quick mod to make to the tables and may give me more idea of what the right direction is.

I agree, it isn't clear why this is happening with my standard set-up. I cant find any leaks from the exhaust so confusion reigns .

Tried the 20219 today and the popping was still there - maybe slightly less but difficult to tell. I wont keep using this tune as there are a lot of differences in the I tables - ignition I'm presuming.

I have now altered a 20215 tune by increasing the cell values by 10% in a block '800 to 2400' rpm x '0 to 544' hPa Air Pressure. Will load it tomorrow and see how it goes.

Have been tied up for a while with weekends away from home, visits from friends and bad weather but finally got round to do a bit more fiddling with my tune.

I tried the tune with 10% increases as described in my last post - this ended up being too high an increase across too wide a range. Most of the popping had gone but the engine hesitated at small throttle openings and was obviously running too rich low down.

To cut a long story short, the tune was changed several times - each being checked with a reasonably long test ride. Got quite tedious, but today at long last it looks like I have a result.

The exercise has been interesting but I would really like to get the tune checked out on a dyno, if only there was a Mr PowerTripp near me in the UK.

Well I'm a bit miffed.

Took the Rocket out today to enjoy my now 'no-popping' bike and after 20 odd miles it started popping again. Could this be the o2 sensor adapting?

If it goes back to how it was (i.e. no popping) after switching off the sensor and reseting the adaptions, is it safe to use it that way long term? Obviously if it is, I would disconnect and remove the sensor completely.

Does anyone have a tune for roadster triple k&ns no cat and straight through pipes a mate of mine needs it otherwise he will have to bite the bullet with Pcv


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