tuk tuk sound from final drive

[Bob R]

I have no idea how it could go bad that quick unless there was some damage at install but I am happy you found the source. Those sounds have a way of making a person crazy until they find the source.

bob

 

[Bedifferent]

Dismantled the wheel , greased the shaft & changed the final drive oil. To isolate the sound! removed the wheel and put in gear 1 and rotate the final drive ! no sound !

finally found that the problem ( sound ) is from the bearing @ brake rotor side!

ordered all the three bearings and spacers!!

How will these bearings damage in 5500 miles!!

I had the rear wheel bearing go out on my Harley at about the same mileage. I never heard a noise, but the bike just didn't fell quite right when I was coming home from a ride. It was very subtle. You know how it is when when you are in tune with how your bike or car feels. Anyway, I trailered it to the dealer and sure enough the bearing was going. It was bad enough to it must have spun in the rim as they had to replace that as well. Thank god for the warranty. The dealer claimed they had some bad bearings that year and mine wasn't the first. Scary when you think about it. Cruising 75 and 80 down the highway.

 

[Oldschool]

I had the same thing, except it wasn't a bad bearing, the wheel had cracked where the bearing sits.

 

[Bedifferent]

I had the same thing, except it wasn't a bad bearing, the wheel had cracked where the bearing sits.

I never thought about it, but it could have been the same in my case. However, there was a very small amount of leakage around the wheel seal.

 

[Gregger]

I had the same thing, except it wasn't a bad bearing, the wheel had cracked where the bearing sits.

Well guys I've noticed that my ride has been making a ratcheting sound from the rear which I thought was the brakes rubbing against the rotor. Over the last week it has gotten louder and today sounded like the rear end was going to pack up. I pulled the brake pads and still had the noise. Drained the diff (oil clean) and inspected the crown gear through the fill hole - nothing found. Pinion bearing felt tight. Splines well lubed. I then looked at the bearings in the wheel and noticed that the one on the rotor side was dark and wouldn't turn with my finger. Also the seal looked cooked and fell out. When I looked closely I noticed that the bearing land was cracked all around. Same as Oldschool. Being 8 hours from the nearest dealer and out of warranty by a few months..... this sucks.

Anybody else ever see this?

Got to contact the dealership tomorrow to see what options I have given the fact I don't want to truck the bike from Timmins to London. Those wheels are expensive. Oh the bike is a 2012 Roadster I picked up in April 2014 new. It only has a little over 17,000 kilometers.

 

[Rick Morris]

Thats not good. But that looks like the hub or flange and it is replaceable I think. I would definitely be on the phone with your dealer about this. You could replace it yourself if need be, but I would at least try to get it for free if the dealer with work with you. About $180.00 in the USA.

 

[Gregger]

Thanks Rick, I looked closely at the prints from a couple of parts supply stores and unfortunately the bearing goes in the wheel (rim). Looks like the rim comes with 2 bearings, snap ring, seal, spacer and it costs (cough) $900 US plus plus plus.....

 

[Rick Morris]

That sucks. You are right, I just looked at it on a parts list and the hub is on the drive side. Now I am concerned about mine. I am not easy on the beast. I hope it rains in the next day or two so i can have a reason not to ride and take the wheel off for an inspection. I have 11K on my 2011 R3R.

 

[warp9.9]

Bought new in April of 2014 is a little over your dealer should be able to do something for you. How many times did you pull the wheel and grease the rear drive shaft splines? (requires removing the bevel box)

 

[Gregger]

Just spoke with the dealer and he stated that I should be a candidate to get the Triumph "Good Will" warranty on the wheel failure . Had to take a pile of pictures including odometer, serial number, overall bike and failed parts. More is better. He also stated that I shouldn't have to trailer the bike the 8 hours to the shop if warranty was given but I should be able to replace the rim itself. All they would want is the failed part.

Concerning the bevel box, I removed it twice to lube the splines with a heavy moly grease. Splines have no wear and no rust. I replaced the oil 3 times in 17,000 kilometers with Amzoil 75W-90 synthetic gear lube.