Trans went

Idaho Red Rocket 3 said:

OR .... since you have it all apart buy the Neville Lush Racing 200 HP plus kit and install it now. Just sayin ! Only took me 13 months to git it done while working 56 hours a week.

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verticalspark said:

Ok, Its been a while since I posted, but here is an update. I finally got a chance to get an engine, and a once over at the shop showed some surface rust on parts (good ole Florida) with some minor wear due to the other bike being dropped, but overall in good shape. Started to tear into it today and looked at the front motor mounts and realized they had all been cracked or broken and welded back together and blended to match. Three of them look like they have been sufficiently welded back to form with the outer portion being ugly, while the third shows a crack that had not been welded.





Now Im stuck with a decision. As far as I can tell, the new engine spins freely and doesn't have any issues besides the hack job in trying to repair the mounts. So should I take this to a fab shop and have them fixed correctly so I know the mounts are good or do I flip this engine over, rip out the trans and transfer it into my engine, and keep the rest for spares/sell them?

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TURBO200R4 said:

1ST the early rockets don't lose the clip
i would guess the problem to be the final drive and that is what i would check first.
i am thinking that the splines is stripped going into the collar on the final drive.
if it is then go with a later model with the drive shaft that is bigger.
to confirm move rubber boot back at the rear of motor rotate wheel and see if the driveshaft turns at the motor.
hth

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verticalspark said:

I have been looking at the forums and it seems that many early parts were put in incorrectly. If that bearing went, the gears are gone. I did manage to get it into 1st and idle a bit to get it all the way down my 1/4 mile drive which seems to me like it hit a partial shift during downshift and took some teeth. but I wont know until I drop the motor and split the bottom end. Either way, its going to be expensive.

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R-III-R Turbo said:

Well sh1t if you don't have bad luck then you've no luck at all.
Was the (botched) repair noted in the ad?
If not, I'd be seeking compensation for it from whoever sold you the motor.

If a shop will professionally repair the mounts then I guess that is the most efficient route to getting bike going.
You bought the motor to do an engine swap - if it was just a new transmission you would have bought just that.

If engine swap isn't a viable route,,,, then yeah I suppose transferring internals is a way to go, now you've already got this motor and stuck with it. Less efficient as you've to open 2 engines but hey.
But while in transition I'd get the good trans worked over by Robinson before committing it to the motor intended to be used.

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Gerald said:

Some of welds look like surface welds only, and others look terrible, that being said, hard to make a good-looking weld with cast aluminum. Would talk to a good welding shop for advice. Veeing out cracks and multiple passes time consuming and expensive. Good luck, hope you got it at a decent price.

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