Trans went

I think that you switched the numbers
With the throttle plate completely closed it calls for. 60 and you have .586
Just need to raise it a little. I think that you should favor the higher setting.

TURBO200R4 said:

I think that you switched the numbers
With the throttle plate completely closed it calls for. 60 and you have .586
Just need to raise it a little. I think that you should favor the higher setting.

Click to expand...

I wish I did. The first reading was just under 0.80 v, which I was able to drop down to just under .60 v. I was unable to change the second setting but I will take a screenshot before I change it tomorrow.

That being said, I dont know how it was running if the numbers were that far off. I also need to adjust the throttle bodies as they are all slightly out of sync. The more I dig into this bike, the more I wonder how it hadnt broken down before this.

My phone is at 13percent and the only charger is at the shop so this may be my last post.
The primary tps works from about. 60 volts closeed to open near 4 to 5 volt
So as you open the throttle the more the voltage.
So as you open the throttle the voltage raises . So what you are saying does not make sense
The secondary tps works opposite for what that is worth.
Ok i will say that with the throttle plates closed (tuneecu with drawn and setting against the throttle stop)
Voltage should be .62 bolts and with motor running tps should be .74
Idea setting.

Also move the rubber back and spray wd40 in the stepper motor

Also, and not sure this is a factor, but I remember on the 2.3 that the diagram in the manual is confusing. It's showing the throttle bodies inside the bike looking out (why?). So what's "left" is really on the right when you face the bike. It's been a while and I may have dreamed this, but someone else can have a look and confirm. The primary TPS is on your right when you face them from the left side of the bike.

The Power Commander shouldn't have a bearing on these settings, so go ahead and then if you are still having trouble I would remove it and load the stock tune just to eliminate some variables.

Trouble idling is often the TPS and it may need replacing, not merely adjusting. It could also be the stepper motor, which would affect the idle. The TPS will often affect it above idle too, so if you try raising the RPMs and it still seems confused it's very likely the TPS.

As @TURBO200R4 said, it could also be sticky linkages, including the stepper as well as the throttle bodies.

Here you go... This is reversed, in that it's a representation as if looking over the engine from the right side....

You'll see, if facing the bike like most people would, that the stepper is on the left. The primary TPS is the one on the right side (shown at left in the illustration).

Well, the good news is that everything worked great once it got adjusted. The ISCA was cranked all the way tight, which was most likely the problem I was having.

And for the absolute sh*t bad news, the transmission in this engine is probably broken too. Pulling the clutch lever in, its very light. Start in neutral, pull the clutch lever, kick it to first and the tire spins and then bad noises start to happen in the case. Popped the cover off and dissembled the clutch and its plates and everything looks fine with nothing visually broken and nothing loose. Anyone wanna buy a cheap rocket III?
Video of start-up and stuff

Good it's running better now. It needed the exhaust on and the TPS set / ISCV reset to get here.
Secondary TPS also checked for correct setting? Throttles balanced?
I would also be concerned re the PC3 relevance and the maps suitability.
It sounds a bit weak although running ok.
Why is it 0.601V in the 2nd screenshot, even though the target is 0.72V? Or is that just screenshot taken wrong time.

Anyway re the clutch I would strongly suspect the lifter arm and lifter shaft positions are not right. There is a spring on the lifter shaft and when you disconnect the clutch cable (e.g. when you are selling the engine to someone) it will spin the lifter shaft out of printed position and leave the whole lever feeling impotent.

The noise if makes when put into gear, might be just dogs hopping off the gear as it hasn't engaged fully.. there should be a firm clunky as it goes fully into 1st.
Also even if it is in 1st fully, the rear wheel has freedom to play about on the slack in the drivetrain and the noise could also be the dogs hopping off both sides of the windows as the engine turns the trans and the rear wheel has no resistance to hold it against the driving face of a gear window.

You took off the front cover and all was ok with the lifter shaft and lifter piece?

Correct reassembly of these and your clutch lever etc should work right

Throttles need to be adjusted a bit to get the cylinders balanced. I dont have a way to check the secondary TPS.


That screenshot was the setting of the ISCV before I changed it. They were completely opposite of what they needed to be. The original TPS was 0.786 and the ISCV was 0.601.

I thought it was the lifter arm as well but when I pulled the front of the case, it was in the correct position. I spun it into place before I put the case front back on. I will have to go out there and check again a little later as I am frustrated with it currently.

Yeah when you offer the front engine cover into place, you have to have the lifter shaft already turned anti clockwise so the spring is hooked and primed, and then turn the lifter shaft anti clockwise the final bit as it goes under the head of the lifter piece/pullrod, so the 'claw' on the lifter shaft hooks in around the back of the lifter piece / pull rod's head.
The spring keeps the claw from sitting against the back of the head when lever is out.