Throttle position sensor issue

The TPS can go bad without creating a high idle problem. its basically a rheostat and can get a worn or flat spot in it that could cause a stumble or bad signal that would create a stumble. Since you have been messing with it could it be you have tightened it to much? Do uo have a shim under it so it stays flat and does not get cocked at a angle when you tighten it? The shim fix or mod has been out for years since the age of Homobre !!!! I believe he noticed the affect of it not setting flat when installed. This could very from bike to bike or throttle body to throttle body as tolerances creep in during manufacturing. I used a soda can to cut my shim out and have never had a problem with it since I used the shim 45,000 miles ago.
 

I didnt touch it. All I did was reset the ISCV or just check the volts and moved on to TuneECU calibration or whatever its called. I just clicked the button on the laptop !!!! It ran great after that for 50 miles.
 
I dont know how to adjust it bro !!!!
You know more then you think. See you have already done most everything there is to set one except unplug and take the old one off. then install the new one and plug it in. After you do that then do a ISCV reset. only after the first part when you check to see if the reading is .6 you adjust the TPS by rotating it until it reads .6 plus or minus .02 volts. tighten it down and if it moves to much loosen it back up and readjust it. until it stays at .6 plus or minus .02. then you move on to the next part of the ISCV which is clicking it again and see that the reading has move .12 volts or in other words moved to .72 IF it has you do not have to adjust the stepper motor and move on until it has you reset the adaptives and your done. if you have to adjust the stepper motor then you do and move on. I know there is a link to doing this on the site people have posted it. let me see if I can find it and while I am looking maybe someone will already post it for you. One thin I do know from talking to you Justin, is you can do this.
 

My money, is that the OP has a mis-adjusted "close" cable. It is easy to leave it slightly too tight, and it will behave exactly as you describe. When the engine warms it is "just" enough for the TB plates to have enough friction to stick because of the over-tight cable. Blipping the throttle fixes it because it adds extra force from the return spring on the TB arm essentially slamming it closed vs a slow close like when normally rolling off. My Daytona had these exact symptoms at one point, original TPS on the 'Tona is fine after 12 years.

It is far more likely that the tech mis-adjusted the OPs cable than a sensor failing.
 

I thought I had read somewhere, you have to use a meter to adjust the TPS.
Thanks Scott.

You think the problem is the (primary) TPS then ?