Stuck in first.

Ok.. So I have the same problem.. 2006 rocket ...sloppy gear shift .. wont change gear.. 100mile from home and stuck in 4th.. It got me home though.. not many bikes can pull away from lights, and do 90mph on motorway with the wife on the back all in one gear !!!
Arrived home at 6pm, read a bit.. decided it was the dreaded bolt loose on shifter.. started tear down at 7pm
By 1am the engine was out, I took the head off as I wanted to check valve seats as front cylinder is not firing as strong as other two..

Removed the cams from head, sump cover, clutch cover and clutch plates, alternator cover etc etc.. now waiting for clutch basket removal tool.
2am.. went to bed.. exhausted but with a sense of achievement (I have taken engine out before)

attached are pictures of the engine as it stands right now. But my question is this...
Once I turn the motor upside down and start to split the casing... can I just lift the lower casing off without disturbing the crank or anything else for that matter.. I'm no mechanic, but am not afraid of taking stuff apart and putting it back together, but this is a mammoth task by anyone's standards... I worried i will lift the case and all the internals are gonna pop out at me in a big pile of bits...

I don't want to spend a fortune on upgrade parts while I'm at it... although I know it would make sense... is there anything i really must do while i have it this far stripped... any MUST DO'S ?

Head bolts... Must they really be replaced?.. and does anyone know a source to buy just the gaskets i need.. Head, clutch and sump... full kit at nearly £400 seems a rip off when i don't need most of it

I once spent two weeks removing a 1971 Jaguar Series III E-type from its engine. Y'all amaze me. I guess with the right tools, and inclination, one can move mountains.

Since it is 06 you should look at the output drive Bearings and if they have never been changed I would add the updated ones. Can you supply a picture of the drive from the front looking at the bearing and then at a angle to see if the rear bearing is a sealed bearing? You also should update the second gear while your in this far. And well the detent wheel did change to a bearing instead of a steel disc. I could not tell from the pictures but is the detent spring still together or broken?

As for splitting the case you can without disturbing the crankshaft and pistons heck you could have done that with the head and cams still on and timed. Once you pull the front clutch stuff and input shaft flange and the rear goodies I did find a bolt that likes to hide in front of you which will give you more grief then realizing there is the bearing housing 2 bolts on the rear output of the transmission. It is right on the end of the gear that meshes with the output drive helical gear. Now the one that stumped me for a wee bit was this little bugger



easily located after you pull the oil scavenger pump

detent spring is in place and appears good..
Will take some pics tomorrow of output shaft bearing...

Is the 2nd gear a big issue then?.. is it difficult to change?

I'm glad I took the head off.. I know the gasket is expensive but I wanted to check valve seating as the front cylinder was defiantly not firing right..
There was a lot more carbon build up on the front piston as well as well as the head, and the valve stems are black as opposed to the others which are a light brown (outlet).. the inlet valve stems on the front cylinder also seem to have some black specks on as well.. will attach pics in morning.

I am not sure how many miles is on yours there are some out there that have not been updated but If it were mine and I was already in her I would do it. changing the parts is not hard When you put the snap rings/cir-clips back on make sure the burred edge is outwards this burr is from the part being punched out in a die it is normal Making sure it is on the outboard side will give the best holding power in the ring groove. Hope this is not confusing. Also you probably might not know this but the 06 cam chain guides were also changed. With Stock valve springs I would not worry about it who knows you might have already planned on changing them.

Here is output shaft...

A

El Bruto said:

Here is output shaft...

Click to expand...

Ok @El Bruto your front bearing is the newer one although it is installed backwards. I can not see the rear as I would need a picture of the inside of the bearing you can see the retainer bolt in the second picture of the front on the unit. But if it has the same seals as the front and you can see it is grease packed it is a new one also. I would question that maybe the engine the engine you bought had the update kit installed in it. If so you want to check the second gear stuff. Can you post a picture of the cam chain guide? I want to see the one the tensioner rides against to see if it is the original 06 one or the updated on. When you split her we can determine if the second gear dog and gear have been changed.

Any good?

El Bruto said:

Any good?

Click to expand...

OK it looks like the rear bearing is unsealed in the update kit it changed to a double sided seal. So you front is in backwards and has not gone bad yet I was lucky on my 06 also. When you split her open you will see why she is backwards. the oil fed to it is from the trans mission side if you look up in the engine you will see where the bearing fits and the oil port to it which also feeds the rear bearing of the transmission input shaft it will even be more apparent to you once you split her open. The Cam chain guide is the old style so I will suspect non of the update kit has been done. We will verify by looking at how many dogs are on the the second and third dog ring. Easy to see once you have her open as you will be lifting the shaft out so you can get at the gear change actuator arm bolt. I bet you detent wheel looks like this one




The newer updated one looks like the one below take a look at yours and verify

yep.. looks like the old style one....
Budget is small and parts are expensive... so I really need to know what is an absolute must do, what is a really should do, and what can I leave until later... Bearing in mind the engine and gearbox were running fine prior this bolt coming loose!
After just paying out £1500 for the exchange engine I really don't want to pay out another £2800 for the upgrade kit.
My parts order is already at £200 with new head gasket, head bolts, spark plugs and a few assorted gaskets that I need and clutch removal tool.

Glad I took head off.. rear cylinder had a minor leak on exhaust valve so will get all the valves re-seated while its in bits...