Starting Problems - observations and questions

[rocket51]

I would recommend that you do the negative cable mod first.

tdragger I removed my ground wire from battery to engine and it looks pretty hefty. Do you know what gauge cable you got to replace factory? My ignition switch looks to be fine.

 

[tdragger]

let me find the thread on this and get back to you.

 

[tdragger]

ok. Here it is from the "other" site.



I just replaced the negative battery cable. I did not do the starter relay on the positive side.

The replacement cable was 4 gauge.

 

[CanberraR3]

tdragger I removed my ground wire from battery to engine and it looks pretty hefty. Do you know what gauge cable you got to replace factory? My ignition switch looks to be fine.

Seriously, try just replacing the bolt into the battery terminal with new one a fraction longer, especially if you have a lot of connectors stacked up. If that doesn't make any difference look at the other fixes. I know it sounds too simple but it fixed my cold start problems.

 

[HansO]

if you don't think that the contacts is bad in the switch causing the solder to melt ,why wouldn't it melt on a low mileage bike. and if the problem was some where else then it would melt the new switch.
i have tore apart several car ign switches and what happens is the contact deteriorate and the current draw heats up the contacts. what we need is for some one to tear apart the bad switches and post pictures.
herman

It has happened to low milage bikes, as I said if you start asking around there have only been a couple but there have been some and they are guys that commute a lot in traffic.
Personally I would Not bother fixing a switch that has got to the point of melting the solder, as once it has done so it would be a time bomb as I am sure the contacts would have to be heat affected (softened and to what degree who knows but I would not like to be unsure) but if you have not had any issues yet and put in a headlight relay kit there should be no need to worry about the switch, as said previously bikes that are ridden around the city will be more prone as they are stop/starting a lot more so there is less cooling air flowing over the switch

 

[HansO]

guys remember "water flows easier thru a bigger hose requiring less pressure" an Old sparky told me that many years ago and when it comes to autoelectronic's no truer word was ever spoken

 

[TURBO200R4]

hanso it was my mistake i thought he said that the wire had came loose. but all some one asked if it could be solder back on.
herman

 

[HansO]

hanso it was my mistake i thought he said that the wire had came loose. but all some one asked if it could be solder back on.
herman

thats Cool I would just hate to see someone get the Sh!ts with thier bike after fitting a relay kit and repairing a heat damaged ign switch just so it could let them down again.
Triumph unfortunately like so many manufacturers use bare minimum gauge wire and cut corners they think they can get away with only for the owners to later get problems as the wire degrades, I have replaced wiring looms in mates cars and bikes to many time over the years because they have added something by patching into existing wiring only to have it fail and in some cases take out the original wiring as well. If any thing is added to a bike or car that is going to increase the draw on the system it is better to run it thru a relay and of the battery via a heavier gauge wire capable of handling more than is asked of it, follow that basis rule and you should never have a problem.

A good example of someone asking for trouble is someone fitting an Air Horn set to replace a single horn with out running it thru a relay the Air Horn has a much higher current draw than the single Beep Beep horn and if used enough will eventually damage the feed wire and owner would probably notice that their air pump does not turn over as fast or that the air horn does not sound as good

 

[rocket51]

Thanks again all. tdragger can I add a 8 gauge solid wire to the cable I have which is probably at least 8 gauge and in effect get 4 gauge? The cable I have has a splice wire that plugs into another wire which goes I don't know where.

PS: Tdragger thanks for the post to the other site. I will be looking thru it to find more info.

 

[tdragger]

Oh, I'm not the expert but I do know that amp ratings are not proportional to the wire gauge. 8 awg is good for 24 amps whereas 4 awg is good for 60 amps.

In your case, I would be concerned with routing the cable and, more importantly, making a good connection of each end.

The little extra wire with the connector is not a big deal. I cut it close to the main cable and, if I remember right, stuffed it into the lug prior to soldering the end. That cable has something to do with the alarm system so you have to properly deal with it.