Scorpion batteries, BatteryStuff.com, voltage and CCA

There are many models of smart chargers or battery tenders. I use the Battery Tender Junior which is only 3/4 of an amp. Comes with the attachments to hook up to your battery and plug in. I got mine at Home Depot in Canada for $29 bucks.

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I run the Deltran Jr's with good results. Beware of the the fakes on Epay
 
There are many models of smart chargers or battery tenders. I use the Battery Tender Junior which is only 3/4 of an amp. Comes with the attachments to hook up to your battery and plug in. I got mine at Home Depot in Canada for $29 bucks.

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I have several of those, they're cheap and they last a few years. The Noco was well reviewed, but I'm set up already with the style pigtail on the one shown, so I've stayed with the cheapies, I just make sure I have an extra or two around for when one conks out.
 
Personally i've had batteries overcharge and bulge by some of these smart devices. I would rather just start the bike 20 mins before ready to go, then if it needs a boost just stick the charger on.
I want a lithium battery next to save a few KGs. I reckon with the ramair kit creating an extra space I could probably get a spare attached and still save a little weight over the lead acids (future electric supercharger anyone?)
 
Personally i've had batteries overcharge and bulge by some of these smart devices. I would rather just start the bike 20 mins before ready to go, then if it needs a boost just stick the charger on.
I want a lithium battery next to save a few KGs. I reckon with the ramair kit creating an extra space I could probably get a spare attached and still save a little weight over the lead acids (future electric supercharger anyone?)

That works for a while. Once the battery has a deep discharge event, it's going to let you down at the worst moment. The device you used seems to have not been so smart to avoid the "overcharge"

Save a little, spend a lot. I was not aware of the difference in quality and function of battery tenders and chargers.
 
I figured it was time to replace the original five year-old battery in my R3T, not because it was bad but simply as preventative maintenance. After reading some reviews, I decided to order a 320 CCA Scorpion battery from BatteryStuff.com. The battery arrived in two days from across the country.

I did a quick test of it with my Fluke DVOM and my Topdon conductance tester before installing it. Voltage was fine but it failed the conductance meter’s tests. I thought maybe it was just because it had been sitting for a while and needed charging so I installed it. I always plug my Optimate 6 in my Rocket when not riding. I seemed to notice that it hesitated slightly when starting and cranking slightly slower but I thought it might be my imagination so I didn’t give it much thought.

Fast forward less than two months when the temperature dropped to 40F. The engine only cranked twice feebly and gave up. I tested the battery in the bike. It passed the voltage tests (unloaded and loaded) but failed the conductance test. I contacted BatteryStuff and they emailed me a test procedure for me to follow and then send the results back to them. The battery passed all their tests but they only tested for voltage. Voltage tests can tell you if a battery is bad but they can’t tell you if a battery is good. Voltage is only part of the story. My conductance tester showed the battery only had 150 CCAs even after a full charge. After performing all BatteryStuff’s tests I did my own tests. Voltage was checked with my Fluke DVOM. In addition to the load test while cranking in the bike, I did a load test with my carbon pile load tester on the bench and I also did a conductance test. Short story: all BatteryStuff’s tests would indicate the battery was good but it was really bad. Very bad!

For comparison, I did all the same tests with my old battery that was to be replaced. It passed all tests with flying colors and, in fact, after five years had more CCA than it’s rated 270 CCA!

I contacted BatteryStuff with the results. Sarah at first didn’t seem to think my test results were valid because I did other tests IN ADDITION to their tests but once she understood what the situation was, she immediately sent me a new battery. (Great customer service! Thanks, Sarah.) Unfortunately, the replacement battery was bad too. Sarah kindly sent me two return labels to return both batteries for a refund at no charge to me.

The moral of this story for me is this: Batteries that come with the electrolyte installed from the factory may have been sitting unused for a long time and that can cause sulfation from what i understand. (My Optimate 6 attempts to correct that but no luck in this case.) So, when I order another battery, I’m going to order one that comes with the electrolyte separate that is to be installed by me. In the past, that’s how batteries were sold. You’d go to a parts store and someone would fill the battery you were buying with electrolyte. I don’t know if anyone does that with car/truck batteries anymore but I do know that some motorcycle batteries are sold that way and that’s good.

If you don’t have a conductance tester and you do your own work like I do, I suggest you get one of these great tools. They've come WAY down in price. They are incredibly fast and easy to use. They also test charging and starting systems. Mine even tests the diodes in an alternator. It’s so easy to use that you don’t even have to read the manual. If I didn’t have one, I couldn’t prove that the battery was bad (except for the fact that it wouldn’t turn over the Rocket!) and I might be stuck with a useless battery.

Thanks for sharing! ...I haven't experience nor knew all of that. I love always learning here... :thumbsup:
-MIG
 
There are many models of smart chargers or battery tenders. I use the Battery Tender Junior which is only 3/4 of an amp. Comes with the attachments to hook up to your battery and plug in. I got mine at Home Depot in Canada for $29 bucks.

I've been running a Tender Junior on all 3 bikes for years without issue. When my wife's new car battery went dead after only 2 years (she doesn't drive it a lot) I did invest in a high-speed BatteryMinder desulfator and maintainer and now every so often I'll plug it into a bike for a day or two. Hopefully it's doing some good... if not I at least have the placebo effect... :laugh:
-MIG
 
I've been running a Tender Junior on all 3 bikes for years without issue. When my wife's new car battery went dead after only 2 years (she doesn't drive it a lot) I did invest in a high-speed BatteryMinder desulfator and maintainer and now every so often I'll plug it into a bike for a day or two. Hopefully it's doing some good... if not I at least have the placebo effect... :laugh:
-MIG

It's all about priorities. I had my bikes and tractor on tenders for 6 months while we were back in NY, I left my wife's car sitting in the driveway, I just got done putting a new battery in it, won't be doing that again. Man, modern cars, you can just see the positive terminal buried under all the crap, I'm thinking how would you ever get that out? Good old YouTube videos, jack up car, remove wheel, remove inner fender..... WTF?
 
I went with 2 of these from sams club, with there 2 yr replacement I figured I try. So far so good
 

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