SAI delete

EskimoPie

Supercharged
Joined
Dec 1, 2020
Messages
430
Location
Sahuarita, AZ
Ride
2021 Rocket 3 GT
Anybody else done the secondary air injection delete? I just installed mine. Also got the evap canister delete but the seemed like a lot more work to remove it all so I didn't take anything out. In my TuneECU map I've added fuel to the L1/L2/L3 tables and deselected SAI, Evap, and O2. I've had the Werkes exhaust installed for a while now and while I've only got 1 ride on it so far it seems to have eliminated the periodic backfires I'd get with the Penner tune and Werkes alone (I had the L-table mods prior to the SAI delete). So far I'm happy with the mod. I also installed the DNA filter at the same time.

 
The SAI kit has an electronic plug for the connector to the solenoid, right? This prevents it from throwing an error code when the solenoid is disconnected. Did you disconnect the O2 sensors before unchecking the O2 box? If so, then it would have thrown an error code. Unchecking this box doesn’t disable the sensors, it suppresses the error code when the sensors are disconnected.
 
Yes, the kit came with the solenoid connector shorting plug. I'd had the O2 sensor removed for some time (since I installed the Werkes a year or two ago), but I disconnected it at the same time I flashed the time disabling it.

I didn't unplug the Evap valve nor install the shorting plug at that connector. I just unchecked it in the TuneECU file. I'm assuming that completely disables it. Anybody know different?
 
I doubt it disables it. The best way to find out is to ask Tom who manages the Tuneecu Facebook page or email the developer (Alain at meeouf@gmail.com). Tom says that the O2 box just suppresses error codes. But this involves the closed loop operation. The EVAP system could be different. Regardless, If you have the ability to remove it, why not do so? It’s just extra weight.
 
The plumbing lines from the evap valve to each cylinder looked like it would take significant effort to extract... in addition to needing to run a new line from the tank down to the ground (although perhaps could re-purpose the existing line from the canister to the ground. I got a little crunched for time and wanted to button everything back up. Next time I have the tank off I'll probably extract it. I suppose at the very least I could disconnect the electrical connection and plug in the shorting plug.
 
There’s a rollover valve to prevent gasoline from flooding the canister in case the bike rolls over. Cut the tube (or replace it) between the tank and the rollover valve, extend it to the ground, rip out everything else, install the electronic plug and cap off each throttle body.
 
Good morning,

I also removed the canister and the exhaust gas recycling system... and the OEM exhaust with its catalyst ! So I became a dangerous anti-environmental terrorist

These accessories only serve as lures for environmentalists... Balancing air out of the cylinder does not change the quantity of gasoline you injected BEFORE...
If you don't want pollution you take your bike and you use your legs, that's all!

In addition, when you see the AFRs of the original maps intended to meet anti-pollution standards you cry for your engine... A good AFR for an engine is closer to 13 than to 14.6 as installed in the MAPs which involves an engine temperature that is too high, a mixture that is too weak, and “popping” when decelerating that can fry your valves and your balls ...

In short, they piss us off...
 
 
I think I would like to do all of this when I get my new headers/pipe and then retune/dyno.
 
The AFR’s in the AFR table in the tune serve two purposes. The first is to calculate the amount of fuel to inject. That is, a value in the fuel table, which is mg of air multiplied by a constant, divided by the corresponding AFR. This gives mg of fuel. The second is to allow the ECU to go into closed loop, using the lambda (O2) sensor. This is for fuel efficiency. This applies only in the block of the AFR table where the value is 14.5 or thereabouts and only at steady throttle and low engine load. Fueling at the top end and under acceleration is not affected. The O2 sensor is designed to detect AFR between and 14 and 15. This corresponds to sensor output voltage between about 0.1 and 1.1v. If the output voltage is in the upper part of this range, the ECU leans out the mixture, and visa versa. A stock bike with a stock tune is not going to have its valves burned up. I’m all for fuel efficiency and not poisoning the air. Where I live, however, motorcycles are exempt we can do what we want to them.
 
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