No doubt, I can have the pieces made and just order the stabilizer if needed
Yes but one needs three location dimensions remember even though it is on too of the bar it still has to be centered over the top triple tree nut. But yes it can be done maybe even on the mount you have depending on the amount of materisl removed verses weakening the bracket.
 
Yes but one needs three location dimensions remember even though it is on too of the bar it still has to be centered over the top triple tree nut. But yes it can be done maybe even on the mount you have depending on the amount of materisl removed verses weakening the bracket.
Copy that and I could take top triple tree in with bar clamps to get exact center, right?
 
Yes but one needs three location dimensions remember even though it is on too of the bar it still has to be centered over the top triple tree nut. But yes it can be done maybe even on the mount you have depending on the amount of materisl removed verses weakening the bracket.
Not much material has to come out to get flat, not sure how deep for nut on bottom of Scott’s though as I see what you’re saying about weakening once accommodating that nut
 
having a handle bar clamp cut is something I would not be opposed to having made, I have to have a stabilizer and the linear I just don’t think will fit on touring, so having a machine shop just have machined what parts I need for the Scotts may be the way we have to go.
 
Between the other threads you’ve worked on this and helping me with a touring I think we’re almost down to which unit to buy, at least I’m feeling like I can do this, now safety tieing oil drain plugs :banghead:
 
I know @Joesmoe was wanting one from when you and Claviger and the guy in Germany were hammering out ideas for youlls bikes so at least if I just go to a machine shop I think all that will be needed is a bar clamp and pin bracket made correct? Take them triple tree and measurements for pin bracket that’s about it Right?
 
Copy that and I could take top triple tree in with bar clamps to get exact center, right?
yes that is what I used on mine plus I bought the complete mount off ebay knowing I would have to machine on the lowers a little as they swell at the bottom like yours does. the one thing the bothers me is the height off the bar on them top mounts haven't thought much until now but a tall post with two 6mm bolts (in some cases 4) as weakness goes doesn't seem to go along with his concerns about the under bar mounted GPR model bolts times 8 ea..
Also in my searching so far and I plan on more I do not remember seeing a lot of over the top mounts. but if I can figure out a supplemental gauge mount The base top clamp on the standards are quite beefy. let me get to work and ponder more :D
 
yes that is what I used on mine plus I bought the complete mount off ebay knowing I would have to machine on the lowers a little as they swell at the bottom like yours does. the one thing the bothers me is the height off the bar on them top mounts haven't thought much until now but a tall post with two 6mm bolts (in some cases 4) as weakness goes doesn't seem to go along with his concerns about the under bar mounted GPR model bolts times 8 ea..
Also in my searching so far and I plan on more I do not remember seeing a lot of over the top mounts. but if I can figure out a supplemental gauge mount The base top clamp on the standards are quite beefy. let me get to work and ponder more :D
thanks warp, holding steady
 
yes that is what I used on mine plus I bought the complete mount off ebay knowing I would have to machine on the lowers a little as they swell at the bottom like yours does. the one thing the bothers me is the height off the bar on them top mounts haven't thought much until now but a tall post with two 6mm bolts (in some cases 4) as weakness goes doesn't seem to go along with his concerns about the under bar mounted GPR model bolts times 8 ea..
Also in my searching so far and I plan on more I do not remember seeing a lot of over the top mounts. but if I can figure out a supplemental gauge mount The base top clamp on the standards are quite beefy. let me get to work and ponder more :D
Do you need the size of the holes here at key switch rivets, I can take off and measure, pretty beefy
 

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thanks warp, holding steady
LSO
Do you need the size of the holes here at key switch rivets, I can take off and measure, pretty beefy
No sir those are the standard security break offs probably 5 mm small fellers like the ones on my damper only 6 less :) Also another note Top Mounted Radial dampers will not work on risers . Think about it they lift and pull the bars back off center line. The ones I shown on the standard the damper is mounter in between. not that a offset mount couldn't be made but you'll most likely have to shift the anchor post mounts.
Just a though as my cup is not finished. :D
 
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