The electrical system will handle the load from trailer lights but you should use a 30 amp relay. Don't tap directly to your taillight wiring without a relay. You don't want any more load on your ignition switch. Run power wire direct from battery and use your taillight wire to trip the relay.
I guess I need more than that. Unplugged bike lights are fine. Plugged to Trailer and no blinkers, no running lights (except on Trailer Bumper), BRAKE LIGHTS WORK ON BOTH. Back of bike is not working accept brakes. Unplug and all goes back to normal. No fuses tripped.
The electrical system will handle the load from trailer lights but you should use a 30 amp relay. Don't tap directly to your taillight wiring without a relay. You don't want any more load on your ignition switch. Run power wire direct from battery and use your taillight wire to trip the relay.
Bushtec offers a universal isolation sub-harness, but I didn't get it. I have used this same Hitch Plug setup with my same trailer on a Harley Road Glide, Honda GL1800 Goldwing, and a Kawasaki ZX14 with no issues. Since it is a 5 wire system going to a 5 wire trailer plug, I thought it would be easy. Guess I was wrong.
You have to run turn signals lights and wires separate or they will back feed through the brake lights. I also used LED brake light taillights also used LED side marker's does not draw hardly any current do not have to worry about fuses. Am bringing the cargo trailer to Maggy Valley if you would like look at it.
You have to run turn signals lights and wires separate or they will back feed through the brake lights. I also used LED brake light taillights also used LED side marker's does not draw hardly any current do not have to worry about fuses. Am bringing the cargo trailer to Maggy Valley if you would like look at it.