Looks like my battery is not charging enough to start my bike. It cranks but it does not start. I took it out to charge and it will only charhe upto 12.39 - 12.40 using a trickle charger. When I installed it , the lights came up and every thing and it cranked but no life. I measure the voltage in between cranking and its fallen to 12.22.
1. IS jumping from a car worth it ?
2. Also I have attached some pictures to make sure, my connections are good. 3 black wirtes going to negative and 2 red taped wires going to positive. In the 3rd picture there is an open plug which I am not sure where it goes to.
The third picture the connector in your hand is the obdll
It is used for connecting to a scanner to read fault code numbers and also data information.
The tuneecu app is very good and will help. advise to get and learn how to use it.qap
The difference in price is hard for me to swallow. Is the newer R3 substantially better and worth the extra 10k I am having to spend on a barely used 2018.
Having 2 R3Rs, I'm likely biased, but I would say no and buy the 2018. All the 2 5 electrical changes, comfort, lack of luggage, and now reading about the valve adjustment drama/cost seals it for me. I'd not be willing to take a 2.5 across the country and back (10, 12K miles).
The third picture the connector in your hand is the obdll
It is used for connecting to a scanner to read fault code numbers and also data information.
The tuneecu app is very good and will help. advise to get and learn how to use it.qap
So changing the battery fixed it. That being said the battery that I bought was slighly of a different spec and also sat differently with + and - place on the left side. Do you all know if there is any difference at all between 20L-BS and 20HL-BS as those are the two compatible models for the R3R. Also Amazon says 20HL-BS is not compatible with R3R 2018 where as BateryPlus does . BTW I got the 20HL-BS the placement of the + and - knobs are different. "Ah-After some research - Here is the explanation - YTX20L-BS and YTX20HL-BS Batteries Equivalents and Replacements
Secondly my fuel guage now shows 0 as opposed to showing what ever level the tank is filled. Is this the afteraffects of flipping the battery ? . How does this get fixed ?
Secondly my fuel guage now shows 0 as opposed to showing what ever level the tank is filled. Is this the afteraffects of flipping the battery ? . How does this get fixed ?
Man, that there IS a GREAT question!
I've had tanks off on both my Roadstes several. Neither now works and one has the low level light turn on after 50 miles! Tis a real PITA!
Wish I could learn the voodo majic sequence to repair them!
Have you ridden the bike since replacing the battery? If not, I predict your fuel gauge will come back to life within a minute, or so. Otherwise.....
....your clutch switch may be damaged. That will definitely cause the gas gauge to stop working. One way to test is to see if you can start the bike in neutral without pulling in the clutch lever. If yes, you switch is bad.
I've had the tank up and down a lot lately fighting various gremlins. At one point the fuel level indicator stopped working. The low gas warning light still comes on, but the digital display and miles remaining is no longer functioning. I've notice that if I lift the tank it will reset (not...
I guess you're referring to the clutch switch. I guarantee it will cause your fuel gauge to quit working- it's happened to both the 2.3 and 2.5. Have a look at the link on the subject I posted above.