Rivco Risers How to R3T (pic heavy)

[cr0ft]

Nice write-up.

To really dot the i's and cross the t's, hit up Barnett Clutches and order a clutch cable that's a little longer. I'd say about +1.5 inches. Just measure your old clutch cable and give that length plus 1.5 inches, don't say "stock + 1.5", they are prone to getting that wrong. Then you can route the cable the right way. It will get pinched when rerouted past the triple tree.

As for grips, there is nothing special about the Triumph bars. They're 1 inch and will accommodate any 1 inch throttle tube so there are a lot of options for grips.

 

[Bedifferent]

Nice write-up.

To really dot the i's and cross the t's, hit up Barnett Clutches and order a clutch cable that's a little longer. I'd say about +1.5 inches. Just measure your old clutch cable and give that length plus 1.5 inches, don't say "stock + 1.5", they are prone to getting that wrong. Then you can route the cable the right way. It will get pinched when rerouted past the triple tree.

As for grips, there is nothing special about the Triumph bars. They're 1 inch and will accommodate any 1 inch throttle tube so there are a lot of options for grips.

When you are measuring your cable (everyone talks about doing that) from where to where are you actually measuring from? The actual total length of the inner cable from tip to tip? The outer casing length would also affect the adjustability and that would have to be correct as well.

 

[cr0ft]

This is what they sent me and you can choose what measurements you want to give them. The total length, the casing length and the amount of exposed cable are detailed. Just FYI, the numbers didn't really match up to my original cable length so that's why I'm saying you want to specify exactly what you want - by measuring your old one and coming up with numbers of your own.

 

[jtanc39]

Hey guys, I was interested about the riser and went online to search at rivco website. Interestingly, the site mentioned that the riser works with stock cables. Is there really a need to reroute the cable?

 

[Bob R]

For it to work with the stock clutch cable it needs to be rerouted.

bob

 

[jtanc39]

For it to work with the stock clutch cable it needs to be rerouted.

bob

Ah I see... I've probably used to wrong term. I was asking if we need to replace with a new longer cable but your answer cleared my doubts. Thanks bob!

 

[Rocket4me]

I decided to put some risers on my R3T today and when searching there wasn't a lot about how to do it, plenty on how good it is but that is about it.

So here is a condensed version of the steps.

1) The Rivco instructions are pretty good, to a certain point. As always we know that the best intentions may leave out a few things.

First, gather some tools, along with a set of Allen wrenches and socket set/wrenches you will need;

• 14mm Socket or wrench to remove the original risers.
• 17mm socket or wrench to bolt on new risers.
• Home made short 12mm wrench to loosen the nuts on the lower end of the clutch cable. It could actually be smaller and thinner.

Now it is time to start taking things apart.

• Start by removing the left hand side of the radiator shroud. There are 3 allen head bolts that need to come out. The one on the top left and the two on the left side. You can see why here, if you take it off you can access the clutch cable much easier.

Once the Shroud is off you will need to remove the screen, which is held on with one bolt. Once off you have pretty good access to the bottom of the clutch cable.

Now you can use the special wrench of whatever you have to loosen the bottom nut on the clutch cable so you can move it when taking the clutch cable out of the clutch handle.

Go back to the top of the bike adjust the clutch cable for as much slack as you can get and remove it from the handle. Now that it is sticking up in the air you can remove one bolt from the frame cover and snake the clutch cable down so it can be positioned behind the triple tree.

Once the cable is rerouted you can screw the cover back in place over the clutch cable.

Now that the preliminary stuff is done it is time to swap out the risers.

Make sure you have covered your tank and headlights with your wife's best comforters because she is already pissed you spent nearly 200 dollars for these things, you may as well put the icing on the cake.

Remove the original end cap/s by removing the plastic plugs and then taking the allen bolts out. If you don't have help just take your time and hold onto things so the handle bars don't fall off and into the shiny or painted parts.

Once the end cap is off lay the handle bars onto your wife's comforter that is covering the tank.

The bolts on the original risers need to be removed. You will need a 14mm wrench at this point for the nuts under the triple tree. When removing the original risers keep the large washers on top of the triple tree in place and do not lose the large, thick washer from the underside of the triple tree, you will need them for the install.

Once the original risers are off put the new ones in place and using the supplied 17mm bolt and lock washer along with the retained original washers hand tighten the risers.

Now all you have to do is put the handlebars in the new risers, bolt on the endcaps to hold the bars in place, go back and tighten the bolts for the risers then adjust your handle bars to where you want them, reinstall the clutch cable and tighten down the end caps to specified torque provided in the instructions. Once all tightened down adjust the clutch cable to 2-3mm of freeplay at the lever. If you can really measure it, most people I have seen guess are usually at about 6mm and that causes clunky shifting and probably isn't too good for the clutch. Make sure to re-tighten the stop nuts on the bottom of the clutch cable. Start it up and go lock to lock on the handle bars to make sure everything works and you don't get an unexpected squirt of fuel when locked to the left.

Reinstall the radiator shroud and you should be good to go out for a spin.

Happy Motoring.

bob

Thanks for the post. Really helps. I am looking to do the very same on my R3T. I saw another post where the guy felt flex in the bars. Did you experience that? I guess the alternative of going with a different bar would require new cables...more expensive than risers? I get a fair amount discomfort on long rides (6'4", long legs, short arms) and need the extra bar length. Did you feel good about the hassle and expense after it was all done and said?

 

[Bob R]

Thanks for the post. Really helps. I am looking to do the very same on my R3T. I saw another post where the guy felt flex in the bars. Did you experience that? I guess the alternative of going with a different bar would require new cables...more expensive than risers? I get a fair amount discomfort on long rides (6'4", long legs, short arms) and need the extra bar length. Did you feel good about the hassle and expense after it was all done and said?

You presently have flex in the bars and by increasing the leverage the flex does seem to be worse, I think I noticed it for about 10 minutes and now it seems normal. The pull back now is much better, I don't feel as though I am reaching for the bars so my neck and shoulder is much less stressed.

I am very happy with the results and would recommend them to anyone who has to stretch a bit to get to the bars. Worth every penny and the small amount of time to install.

bob

 

[Rocket4me]

You presently have flex in the bars and by increasing the leverage the flex does seem to be worse, I think I noticed it for about 10 minutes and now it seems normal. The pull back now is much better, I don't feel as though I am reaching for the bars so my neck and shoulder is much less stressed.

I am very happy with the results and would recommend them to anyone who has to stretch a bit to get to the bars. Worth every penny and the small amount of time to install.

bob

Thanks man. I just didn't want the bars to feel unstable or too flexy. Sounds like you are happy with the outcome. Good stuff.

 

[Bob R]

Update:

FYI, if you want to change out your clutch cable so you can route like it was when it came off of the showroom floor all you have to do is call Barnett and tell them you want the stock R3T cable + 1.5 inches. Works like a champ and retains the OEM routing.

bob