Reset Adaptations question

warp9.9 said:

Not to rush in and step on any toes. But I am curious as the what the idle is set at in the tune you installed? Maybe its set different from the map you took out. Also don't worry about being a old carb guy throttle bodies are just fancy carburetors. You'll end up liking them better like I did. Also don't unplug the tps and attempt to start the bike the bike ecu won't know where the throttle is verses the amount of feul to squirt. That would be like unhooking the battery and wondering why nothing works when you turn the key.

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I mean I love fuel injection. It’s much better than pumping the pedal to start your car. It’s just the tuning part I am behind on.
Here’s a picture of the throttle table on the new tune. I will have to look and see what it is in the old tune.

TURBO200R4 said:

What i was talking about was forget the spacing and go with the tps settings with tuneecu retract stepper motor set tps at .062 then engage stepper and tps should be at .074 if not adjust the stepper mortor.
This should work as long as nobody has been messing with the idle stop.
When u do away with the o2 sensor u r on a set set of values and the ecu can not make changes for any problem or any situwaition

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Fully agree. That initial TPS setting with the stepper retracted is with the throttle on the idle stop screw. Usually end up with .60 volts. With the increase of .12 volts up to .72 the stepper is moving the throttle (and TPS) to a good idle position (maintained by the stepper with signals from ECM). If this is good, no need to adjust gap.

I was thinking that you could check/test the TPS by monitoring the voltage. With engine off and power on, look for the initial .60 volts. Then very slowly open the throttle. Voltage should increase in a linear fashion with no jumping around. You could do this with an ohm meter also if you unplugged the TPS. I would also try tapping the TPS to see if the voltage jumps. If it does, replace.

When my TPS failed last year, I noticed it had some gasoline inside it. I'm guessing the odd backfire my bike had helped cause this. That gas then evaporates and leaves some varnish on the potentiometer inside screwing the resistance up.

Also, your 02 sensor will screw up if you leave it inserted in the exhaust but not activated. You can leave it there as a plug but don't expect it to work after.

Looks like u r on the right track
I don't think u need to reload at this time just check/uncheck (i forgot which one) the box. Curious if this will work.
Also check the desired rpm in the map u loaded.
Go ahead warp and step on our toes
Lol

Gregger said:

Fully agree. That initial TPS setting with the stepper retracted is with the throttle on the idle stop screw. Usually end up with .60 volts. With the increase of .12 volts up to .72 the stepper is moving the throttle (and TPS) to a good idle position (maintained by the stepper with signals from ECM). If this is good, no need to adjust gap.

I was thinking that you could check/test the TPS by monitoring the voltage. With engine off and power on, look for the initial .60 volts. Then very slowly open the throttle. Voltage should increase in a linear fashion with no jumping around. You could do this with an ohm meter also if you unplugged the TPS. I would also try tapping the TPS to see if the voltage jumps. If it does, replace.

When my TPS failed last year, I noticed it had some gasoline inside it. I'm guessing the odd backfire my bike had helped cause this. That gas then evaporates and leaves some varnish on the potentiometer inside screwing the resistance up.

Also, your 02 sensor will screw up if you leave it inserted in the exhaust but not activated. You can leave it there as a plug but don't expect it to work after.

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i agree with what u say
except with ign on motor off u will be able to check from .072 up to wot
u will not get the .060 unless u retract the stepper.
i once checked a diesel tps (called something diff on diesel) and it checked very good till i hit the road then it was all over the place.
it is amazing when u sneeze it puts yellow lines between the lines lol

the yellow spaces was there before i posted and r still on my computer.
will close am
nd see if that helps

TURBO200R4 said:

i agree with what u say
except with ign on motor off u will be able to check from .072 up to wot
u will not get the .060 unless u retract the stepper.

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What about when you perform the initial step to adjust your ISCV. You end up with .60/.62 volts. Before you proceed, twist your throttle and check to see what you get. I've never tried this but will next time I hook up Tune ECU to check out the old heart rhythm.

Also, I agree about not always getting a bad reading when testing a suspected faulty TPS sensor this way. Sometimes tapping it with the head of a screwdriver to see if the voltage jumps while twisting the throttle causes some action. I wonder if the digital voltage reading in Tune ECU isn't quick enough to measure a jumpy voltage reading????

Gregger said:

What about when you perform the initial step to adjust your ISCV. You end up with .60/.62 volts. Before you proceed, twist your throttle and check to see what you get. I've never tried this but will next time I hook up Tune ECU to check out the old heart rhythm.

Also, I agree about not always getting a bad reading when testing a suspected faulty TPS sensor this way. Sometimes tapping it with the head of a screwdriver to see if the voltage jumps while twisting the throttle causes some action. I wonder if the digital voltage reading in Tune ECU isn't quick enough to measure a jumpy voltage reading????

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i have never thought about checking the tps while on the iscv but it does sound like a good idea let us know if this works for you.
what i think happens that the computer can pick up a slight problem that we r unable to see unless we have a scope on it. then sometimes it will set a code.

Gregger said:

I wonder if the digital voltage reading in Tune ECU isn't quick enough to measure a jumpy voltage reading????

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it would be the OBD cable (or bt plug) used that determines the transfer speed of the data from the ecu to TuneEcu. Or to be more specific the FTDI chip used in the cable that translated the serial data to usb (and very likely the speed selection in TuneEcu)

Frans said:

it would be the OBD cable (or bt plug) used that determines the transfer speed of the data from the ecu to TuneEcu. Or to be more specific the FTDI chip used in the cable that translated the serial data to usb (and very likely the speed selection in TuneEcu)

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U got that right
When we have our scanners on a automatic trans we can feel it shift and about a second or two the scanner shows us it shifted. Sometimes longer if we have a lot of data we r monitering

So I turned up the idle some in my new map. It was 960 in the old MAP and 890 in this one. I set it at 920. Still fluctuates but it doesn't drop as low now since its set a little higher so I'm not so worried it might stall. I'm honestly thinking of taking out the stepper and seeing how it behaves. It's really not a big problem at all and it makes it sound more like a twin at idle which I kind of like but I'm also a perfectionist so it annoys me its not smooth. I have issues.
Anyway I also turned to O2 back on and the decel pop came back with a vengeance so I turned that back off. Once I reloaded the MAP for the second time tonight it would not let me reconnect to the ECU to reset adaptations again. I'd just done it about 30 minutes prior so I am sure it should be fine. I gave up and took it for a ride and it seemed fine but maybe not quite as smooth as when I first loaded the new MAP from Hans. I'm just going to run it for a little bit then maybe reload the Hans MAP again with idle higher and see what happens. Kind of odd it would not let me reconnect again. It normally takes 4 to 5 tries anyway. I'm using windows with a new lonelec cable so I'm blaming it on the ECU being a pain.

In case anyone reads through this post with the issues I was having I wanted to update:
I’m not sure why but my TPS always goes green right after reset adaptations. I still run the bike through the procedure but it seems to cause no issues.
Anyway I was continuing to have issues with the bike. Not really running great at low RPM’s. I’d played with Hans0’s version of tune 20228 a bit more and reloaded with O2 on and also different idle values. I was having no success in getting the bike to smooth out. I’d checked everywhere for vacuum leaks, lubed everything with WD-40. No luck. It was actually stalling out occasionally and seemed very rich. Rather than rebuild the machine I decided it was likely the tune not agreeing with my bike. As I’d said the idle wasn’t perfect before but nothing like this. I found the Triumph version of tune 20226 which is for cat removal and TORS exhaust. I also have Ramair but decided to give it a go and problem solved. The bike as been running perfectly. Smoothest idle since I bought it. Almost perfect 850 where it’s set. The torque is much better across the board. So for me it was the tune causing my issues. I still get a little decel pop with 20226 where I had none with 20228 but I can deal with that.