Replacement Head Gasket

Journeyman said:

Not a bad question, but of course it's subjective according to your abilities and previous experience. Much like when the doctor asks you how bad is your pain level for whatever happens to be ailing you. Most people will give a much higher number than reality. I figure if a 10 is a sharp red hot poker in your eye, pretty much anything else is more like a 6 if it hurts really, really, bad. Wait, what was your question again?

Although having done it once already, I would still say it's a big job that I would approach with some healthy apprehension. The worst part for me was breaking loose those head bolts. It took a lot of force with a breaker bar and I was paranoid that they would snap. Never heard of that happening here, so maybe that's not a true worry.

If you have changed the valve shims before it's really just the next step beyond removing the camshafts for that job. After that you're "just" removing the head bolts and lifting it off.

But, first.........

What we don't know is..... has this bike ever run OK for you? If not, and you bought it this way....

• Does it have the proper anti-freeze (and dilution ratio)?
• Is the cooling fan coming on?
• Have you tried bleeding the air from the system? I would definitely try this first!
• If still no go, take @R-III-R Turbo advice and do the compression and leak down test. Btw, he has more experience than I do- just say'n. Also, @warp9.9 who you've read from in another related post (I'm surprised by these recent head gasket posts- not a typical thing with these bikes).
• If all signs still point to a blown head gasket then jump on in. Big job, but not as bad as a sharp stick in the eye.

Click to expand...

Journeyman said:

Not a bad question, but of course it's subjective according to your abilities and previous experience. Much like when the doctor asks you how bad is your pain level for whatever happens to be ailing you. Most people will give a much higher number than reality. I figure if a 10 is a sharp red hot poker in your eye, pretty much anything else is more like a 6 if it hurts really, really, bad. Wait, what was your question again?

Although having done it once already, I would still say it's a big job that I would approach with some healthy apprehension. The worst part for me was breaking loose those head bolts. It took a lot of force with a breaker bar and I was paranoid that they would snap. Never heard of that happening here, so maybe that's not a true worry.

If you have changed the valve shims before it's really just the next step beyond removing the camshafts for that job. After that you're "just" removing the head bolts and lifting it off.

But, first.........

What we don't know is..... has this bike ever run OK for you? If not, and you bought it this way....

• Does it have the proper anti-freeze (and dilution ratio)?
• Is the cooling fan coming on?
• Have you tried bleeding the air from the system? I would definitely try this first!
• If still no go, take @R-III-R Turbo advice and do the compression and leak down test. Btw, he has more experience than I do- just say'n. Also, @warp9.9 who you've read from in another related post (I'm surprised by these recent head gasket posts- not a typical thing with these bikes).
• If all signs still point to a blown head gasket then jump on in. Big job, but not as bad as a sharp stick in the eye.

Click to expand...

railcutter said:

Hey Journeyman

Hey Journeyman!

I pulled the water pump and the radiator yesterday. Ran a hose through the radiator and it was clean. Pump is fine too. Looked all over for that bleed screw with no luck. I have the manual and it shows it to be just above the pump? Couldn’t find it.

You certainly have a way with words. You must be or should have been a writer!! Thank you sooo much for your response….. Den

Click to expand...

Journeyman said:

Hah- thank you, but my dad is the writer. I'm actually a photographer

Here's the bleed screw...

I've been away from the 2.3s for several years now, but the procedure should be in the manual for changing the fluid and bleeding the air from the system. I hope it's that simple, solving your problem.

View attachment 131292

Click to expand...

Journeyman said:

Hah- thank you, but my dad is the writer. I'm actually a photographer

Here's the bleed screw...

I've been away from the 2.3s for several years now, but the procedure should be in the manual for changing the fluid and bleeding the air from the system. I hope it's that simple, solving your problem.

Click to expand...

R-III-R Turbo said:

Careful now, that's actually the upper fixing bolt for the thermostat, the bleed screw is immediately to the right of it though.
Just hidden by the idle stepper motor in that pic.
Thermostat fixing bolts use an 8mm socket whereas the bleed screw needs a 10mm socket iirc.

One should also note that the rad cap is the highest point in the system, higher than the bleed screw. When the bike is upright.
The bleed screw only helps evacuate air from the head really. To get full bleeding of air when filling up one should have the bike leaned slightly the right so that the bleed screw and the rad cap are the highest they can be in relation to the rest of the coolant passages.

Click to expand...

R-III-R Turbo said:

Careful now, that's actually the upper fixing bolt for the thermostat, the bleed screw is immediately to the right of it though.
Just hidden by the idle stepper motor in that pic.
Thermostat fixing bolts use an 8mm socket whereas the bleed screw needs a 10mm socket iirc.

One should also note that the rad cap is the highest point in the system, higher than the bleed screw. When the bike is upright.
The bleed screw only helps evacuate air from the head really. To get full bleeding of air when filling up one should have the bike leaned slightly the right so that the bleed screw and the rad cap are the highest they can be in relation to the rest of the coolant passages.

Click to expand...

Journeyman said:

Not a bad question, but of course it's subjective according to your abilities and previous experience. Much like when the doctor asks you how bad is your pain level for whatever happens to be ailing you. Most people will give a much higher number than reality. I figure if a 10 is a sharp red hot poker in your eye, pretty much anything else is more like a 6 if it hurts really, really, bad. Wait, what was your question again?

Although having done it once already, I would still say it's a big job that I would approach with some healthy apprehension. The worst part for me was breaking loose those head bolts. It took a lot of force with a breaker bar and I was paranoid that they would snap. Never heard of that happening here, so maybe that's not a true worry.

If you have changed the valve shims before it's really just the next step beyond removing the camshafts for that job. After that you're "just" removing the head bolts and lifting it off.

But, first.........

What we don't know is..... has this bike ever run OK for you? If not, and you bought it this way....

• Does it have the proper anti-freeze (and dilution ratio)?
• Is the cooling fan coming on?
• Have you tried bleeding the air from the system? I would definitely try this first!
• If still no go, take @R-III-R Turbo advice and do the compression and leak down test. Btw, he has more experience than I do- just say'n. Also, @warp9.9 who you've read from in another related post (I'm surprised by these recent head gasket posts- not a typical thing with these bikes).
• If all signs still point to a blown head gasket then jump on in. Big job, but not as bad as a sharp stick in the eye.

Click to expand...

railcutter said:

Hi Folks!

Can anyone tell me if i can replace the head gasket on a 2014, R3T without removing the engine?

Thanks in Advance

Click to expand...