Replacement Head Gasket

Hi Folks!

Can anyone tell me if i can replace the head gasket on a 2014, R3T without removing the engine?

Thanks in Advance

Yes. You can remove the cam cover, cams, cylinder head all while crankcase is still in the frame.
Manual says to remove oil tank to get the head off, but you don't need to.

Now. Why do you need to replace the head gasket?

R-III-R Turbo said:

Yes. You can remove the cam cover, cams, cylinder head all while crankcase is still in the frame.
Manual says to remove oil tank to get the head off, but you don't need to.

Now. Why do you need to replace the head gasket?

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I just bought a 2014 with 12k miles a couple weeks ago and it would keep blowing out the overflow tank. I finally took the radiator cap off and started the engine and it was bubbling out.

railcutter said:

I just bought a 2014 with 12k miles a couple weeks ago and it would keep blowing out the overflow tank. I finally took the radiator cap off and started the engine and it was bubbling out.

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Was it difficult gettin the head off? Need any special tools? ........ Thanks

Have you done a compression and leak down test?

if you download the manual, there is a step by step guide on removing and installing the head.
Only special tool I can think of is the cam jig for setting the cams after putting the head back. But you can make your own jig, there is a youtube video there on setting cam timing and contains the dimensions for the jig.

Also there is a large torx bit for a breaker bar to remove the head bolts, and a torque wrench and torque angle gauge for torquing up the new head bolts when reinstalling.
TuneECU is handy too to balance throttles and set ISCV/TPS after removing and reinstalling the throttles.
If they count as special.

Although it goes deeper, you may find this post useful....

Journeyman said:

Although it goes deeper, you may find this post useful....

DIY Beginner Upgrades Cams & Pistons - Lives To Tell The Tale

I just finished a Neville Lush piston and cam rebuild in ""record time"" with no prior experience. I had allowed myself a full five days during the Christmas holidays for the install. Well, now, more than three months later, I’m finally in a position to say, "job completed!" and share this story...

www.r3owners.net

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Hey Journeyman!

Incredible video! Way more talented the I am. On a scale of 1-10 (10 being most difficult) how would you rate just changing the head gasket?

Thanks Again ...... Dennis

R-III-R Turbo said:

Have you done a compression and leak down test?

if you download the manual, there is a step by step guide on removing and installing the head.
Only special tool I can think of is the cam jig for setting the cams after putting the head back. But you can make your own jig, there is a youtube video there on setting cam timing and contains the dimensions for the jig.

Also there is a large torx bit for a breaker bar to remove the head bolts, and a torque wrench and torque angle gauge for torquing up the new head bolts when reinstalling.
TuneECU is handy too to balance throttles and set ISCV/TPS after removing and reinstalling the throttles.
If they count as special.

Click to expand...

Thank You!!!!!

railcutter said:

Hey Journeyman!

Incredible video! Way more talented the I am. On a scale of 1-10 (10 being most difficult) how would you rate just changing the head gasket?

Thanks Again ...... Dennis

Click to expand...

Not a bad question, but of course it's subjective according to your abilities and previous experience. Much like when the doctor asks you how bad is your pain level for whatever happens to be ailing you. Most people will give a much higher number than reality. I figure if a 10 is a sharp red hot poker in your eye, pretty much anything else is more like a 6 if it hurts really, really, bad. Wait, what was your question again?

Although having done it once already, I would still say it's a big job that I would approach with some healthy apprehension. The worst part for me was breaking loose those head bolts. It took a lot of force with a breaker bar and I was paranoid that they would snap. Never heard of that happening here, so maybe that's not a true worry.

If you have changed the valve shims before it's really just the next step beyond removing the camshafts for that job. After that you're "just" removing the head bolts and lifting it off.

But, first.........

What we don't know is..... has this bike ever run OK for you? If not, and you bought it this way....

• Does it have the proper anti-freeze (and dilution ratio)?
• Is the cooling fan coming on?
• Have you tried bleeding the air from the system? I would definitely try this first!
• If still no go, take @R-III-R Turbo advice and do the compression and leak down test. Btw, he has more experience than I do- just say'n. Also, @warp9.9 who you've read from in another related post (I'm surprised by these recent head gasket posts- not a typical thing with these bikes).
• If all signs still point to a blown head gasket then jump on in. Big job, but not as bad as a sharp stick in the eye.

While the answer is yes you can do this in place on the bike, the real answered is no you should pull the engine.
These motorcycles call for you to pull the sleeves and replace the seals on them if you pull the head. If you do have a head gasket failure it would have been from an overheat event or many of them from a faulty fan or trash water no coolant or a leak that caused it. Either way yes you can do both those tasks in place but you really do need the bike on a motorcycle lift with proper jacks and hold downs. It would be so much faster to just pull the engine.
There are also some serious issues you should take care of since you have the chance.
The transmission on these bikes is very flawed and are rocking time bombs. Send the trans out to be back cut and a better 4th gear. And fix the depth of the clips as well. The place is called Robertson's.
The head will also need to be serviced and I would take the opportunity to send it to carpenter for the 210 build.
But mainly you need to spec and blueprint the sleeves, pistons, and ring gaps on an overheat like this. You also need to be able to check the block deck hight that it is also not warped. Very high chance that it is if you have a head warp like you do that is causing the pressure to overcome the gasket.
Food for thought.