Recall for 2020 Rocket 3 Rear Brake

I've had my recall done twice. Right before second time brake completely failed. Some people believe the brake line running so close to the engine is causing it to boil and create air in the line. I've filed a complaint here is the US with the National Highway safety board.
 
While i feel for you...its a right royal pain in the butt for sure,,,but if that was the problem, would it not happen on every bike?...not just the odd one?...Is your bike the 'R' or the 'GT' ?...There is obviously a problem with air getting into the line but there are no signs of fluid leaking which to me implies there has been air there in the line since the start...its working its way thru. I'm not a technician but just trying to work this out like everyone else. Often a problem becomes clear when we all stand around and discuss it....
 
The guys on this forum know way more than my dealer ever did. By orders of magnitude
 
Yeah, I agree with that it should happen on all of them. That is just something that someone speculated on Facebook. But if it's just air, not sure why it happens multiple times.
 
Thing is....if the fluid level goes down and there are no leaks...then it must be just air bubbles. If there is a leak, then thats where the air is coming in too isnt it?...unless its getting sucked in from the reservoir cap above the fluid level where there would be no sign of a leak....hmmmmm.
 
DOT-4 brake fluid has a dry boiling point of 230°C (446°F). Brake fluid gets much hotter during hard and/or continuous braking than your engine casing will ever heat it. Bleed your brakes using the DealerTool (http://dealertool.co.uk/) and a vacuum bleeder (Amazon.com: ARES 70923-1-Liter Vacuum Brake Fluid Bleeder - Hanging Hook and Locking Trigger Allows for Hands Free Operation: Automotive). The DealerTool opens the ABS solenoids during the bleeding process, better than TuneECU does, and will also allow you to reset your service interval. The vacuum bleeder makes it an easier one-person job - and absolutely get all air out, even tiny bubbles at banjo bolts. Run through at least ten cycles, operate both rear brake pedal and front brake lever while you bleed (they share a single ABS circuit). At around the eighth cycle, mine seemed to go milky - that was, in fact, lots of really tiny bubbles being purged out of the ABS circuit. That was seven months ago and it has been good ever since.
 
Estoma,
good procedure you suggested to follow.
Abs break systems should have the fluid replaced at least once a year.
with the heat build up at the calibers, the by-product is moisture. The fluid at the calibers is now corrosive. Eventually this moisture
will migrate back to the Abs module.
Bleeding the Abs system as Estoma suggested will not only solve this rear break recall. It will prolong the life of this system.
 
i dont think race bike brakes get hot enough to create fluid overheating but the exhaust heat will. If the fluid boils as suggested by some the gas created by this will create bubbles.
 
Tal said:
i dont think race bike brakes get hot enough to create fluid overheating but the exhaust heat will. If the fluid boils as suggested by some the gas created by this will create bubbles.
Click to expand...

I will add
any air bubbles when they get hot will expand and push fluid from the system so u can go from working brake to no brake.
 
TURBO200R4 said:
I will add
any air bubbles when they get hot will expand and push fluid from the system so u can go from working brake to no brake.
Click to expand...

i spoke with a motorcycle mechanic yesterday about this yesterday and he said its more than likely not air bubbles but gas bubbles created by the boiling or overheating fluid due to the proximity of the exhaust to the brake reservior.....makes sense to me too...maybe a more substantial heatshield needs to be added to form a protection between the reservior and the exhaust.
 
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