Rear wheel

just remember that different models ie Roadster/Std/Classic all have the wider wheel as opposed to the Touring with it's skinny wheel are likely to have different length spacers,
It also seems odd that in recent times there ave been a few of these rear wheel bearing failures, my bike has over 70,000km on the clock with still the same front and rear wheel bearings, I finger tight the bevel box install wheel tighten to just firm then tighten bevel box and then the axel nut
 
They told me the kid who worked on my bike no longer works there. That is a lie. They also mentioned that I could bring the bike back and they would look at it. I told them no thanks. Several nuts and bolts were stripped out. The Hole job would have been better done by a five year old with a toy tool kit from Wallmart. Never again.
 


I posted some of these pics before but felt they would help with this particular post if a reposted them.

My failure left me without a ride for a month this summer. Made the request for warranty to Triumph but they wouldn't oblige. Said the wheel was overtorqued. The dealer stated that it is almost impossible to overtorque the rim and cause this kind of failure. The spacers between the 2 wheel bearings, the cush drive and differential prevent compression of the inner wheel bearing race that would cause this kind of failure. They felt either the spacer was too short, or the bearing bores not deep enough in the rim. Even commented about the snap ring groove being too deep. Triumph corporate wouldn't even split the cost for the rim with me.

My own dealership cut me some slack and charged me $700 Canadian for a new rim. When I got it, it looked fine. Spacer was intact, bearings were free and smooth and axle fit with no binding. Only issue was the wheel was all black. I have put several thousand kilos on it with no issues. Plan on powder coating the front the same this winter.
 
how did u find out about the crack?
was it after a new tire was mounted?
a few captains have had this problem and it would be nice to find the cause.
in order to break that wheel u would have to crush the inner spacer or leave out a spacer near the final drive. or break it on a tire changer machine.
jmo
 
jmo
i think that crashpete problem started just like gregger.
if gregger had driven the bike with that crack it would have chewed its self up just like crashpetes.
 

It all started last year before I replaced my rear wheel. I noticed that the rotor was starting to make contact with the rear caliper mount. I'd only hear it at slow speeds and it was a very slight dragging sound that sounded like the rotor rubbing against the brake shoes. I pulled the shoes and it didn't go away. Pulled the caliper and noticed that the black anodizing on the caliper was slightly worn off on the inside edge where the rotor was touching the mount. I thought Triumph didn't machine the caliper mount properly so I trimmed a small amount of metal from the it (Remember, I live 8 hours from the nearest dealer). The noise disappeared. I think this was the first hint that the rim was failing. Changed rear tire, and put another 4000 kms on the bike. The noise came back when I took the time to listen at slow speed. I rode for another few hundred kilometers and it got louder quickly where it started to have a ratcheting sound. I pulled the diff and inspected it closely (checked crown gear through witness hole, drained oil, check spines on driveshaft). Everything was good. I then inspected the wheel and noticed that the snap ring groove was cracked all around. The rotor side wheel brg wasn't really supporting anything causing the rotor to make contact with the caliper mount. I caught it before it got to the condition Crushpete's was in.

I wonder if this isn't one of the reasons some fellows get premature brg failure and others drive forever without replacing them.
 
By the way, the spacer is still on backorder, they have the rim at least...