Rear Indicator

[Eisenfarn]

I have been having an intermittent problem with the rear right indicator, the amber bulb warning lights up on the panel and the front right indicator flashes at twice the usual speed. To me this is usually an indication of a bad earth on the indicator lamp itself. Checked all the wiring within the rear light unit, which seemed OK, but after riding for a few minutes, once I use the right indicator, same fault. I bought a used complete rear cluster and swapped out one of the indicators, few days down the line this seems to have cured the problem,.

My question is this, is it possible to open up an indicator non destructively?, I read somewhere, which I can't currently find, that the main problem is a dry joint on a small circuit board within the indicator itself. I can't see a way to open it up without using brute force, which would defeat the objective a bit . Anybody done this?

Ta

 

[stingray]

I have been having an intermittent problem with the rear right indicator, the amber bulb warning lights up on the panel and the front right indicator flashes at twice the usual speed. To me this is usually an indication of a bad earth on the indicator lamp itself. Checked all the wiring within the rear light unit, which seemed OK, but after riding for a few minutes, once I use the right indicator, same fault. I bought a used complete rear cluster and swapped out one of the indicators, few days down the line this seems to have cured the problem,.

My question is this, is it possible to open up an indicator non destructively?, I read somewhere, which I can't currently find, that the main problem is a dry joint on a small circuit board within the indicator itself. I can't see a way to open it up without using brute force, which would defeat the objective a bit . Anybody done this?

Ta

Before you start taking the turn signals apart take the battery leads off. Then completely clean off all of the corrosion to bare metal on every lead and the battery itself. Before you put them back together lather everything with dielectric silicone grease. Bulb grease or whatever you call it. Then tighten the battery connections back up very tight. Then, the most important step, retighten the connections to the point you think the bolts might break. Mash them into the soft lead good and tight. There, I just fixed your turn signal problem.

 

[A1A Rider]

Can't you just use a resistance meter to confirm that the old signal and the new have different readings?

 

[stingray]

Can't you just use a resistance meter to confirm that the old signal and the new have different readings?

They operate on a CAN-BUS cable from the ECU unlike the old style. You'd risk damage to the ECU tapping into the signal.

 

[A1A Rider]

I changed out my rear signals for other LEDs (removed the scorpion tail). No CAN-BUS to the rear signals.

> You'd risk damage to the ECU tapping into the signal.

The only way you'd risk if you'd introduce higher than expected voltage.

 

[stingray]

I changed out my rear signals for other LEDs (removed the scorpion tail). No CAN-BUS to the rear signals.

> You'd risk damage to the ECU tapping into the signal.

The only way you'd risk if you'd introduce higher than expected voltage.

What voltage did you get? All you did was swap one LED for another.

 

[stingray]

Be careful trying to check the resistance of any wiring without disconnecting it from the ECU. To check resistance, you have to put voltage through and don't want to be feeding that back into the ECU. This bike isn't like the others.

 

[TURBO200R4]

about ecu's
ecu's are tough little buggers
they are protected in almost all circuits
for example if an injector shorts out it is like taking that 12/14 volt positive wire and putting that wire into the ecu on the ecu's grounding circuit but the ecu has a built in resistor so that the ecu does not burn out. this will set a code (short to ground ) jf there is a break then it sets codes (as open circuit)
most of the ecu problems is caused by not getting the connector plugged in good and straight. i have seen broken pins on ecus and trans connectors. corrosion also takes it tool.
the ecu's will go bad usually on the ground side (in failure to ground the circuit properly.)
now i don't know about a can bus wires have not worked with those but would guess they are protected.
hth

 

[stingray]

Yep, they are designed to divert the signal if grounded out or if it loses ground. It isn't designed to for excess voltage (usually 9 volts on most multimeters) into the outlet signal circuit which operates at millivolts. I'm not going to risk frying mine. Best o' luck bro.

 

[Moz]

Sorry, can't help with the electrical side of things but just as a FYI & FWIW, I've had two replaced under warranty - "characterful" quality!
Might be worth considering just replacing with an alternative.