Radiator Cap Alternative

Claviger said:

Replacing the Tsat, cap, and installing a secondary temp monitor so I can verify what’s going on.

I do have an alternate theory:

Lower radiator hose... originally, they had an external spring to maintain shape. Over time, somewhere along the line, Triumph stopped putting that on. Mine hasn’t got one, and when I look at my lower hose it does, indeed, appear to be slightly flattened. I’m suspicious that it may be completely collapsing at high RPM when the pumps making serious flow demands on a 3/4 ID hose. Luckily I have a brand new OEM part on hand to also swap out, so I’ll switch all three and see what happens. @warp9.9 has pictures posted showing the spring, don’t think I’ve seen many R3s with the spring.

If it turns out to be the lower hose I’ll be a bit annoyed with SAMCO, and will engineer a fix for their hose to prevent the collapse.

For once, and for all, please allow me to dispel three myths:
1: Running without a T-Stat will never, in any case, directly cause your engine to overheat. It will, 100% of the time, be something else in the system.
2: Running a lower T-Stat won’t hurt the motor, and will provide an engine with a greater margin between combustion and detonation provided the radiator has the capacity to expel enough heat to run it at a lower temp. It “may” hurt MPG and emissions.
3: There is no such thing as “too much or too fast flow”. More flow = more cooling, period. All the fud about “moving to quickly through the radiator” is an ancient shade tree mechanic myth.

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Why don't you just put a spring inside the lower hose? I don't know where to get one but I want to find out.

For once, and for all, please allow me to dispel three myths:
1: Running without a T-Stat will never, in any case, directly cause your engine to overheat. It will, 100% of the time, be something else in the system.
2: Running a lower T-Stat won’t hurt the motor, and will provide an engine with a greater margin between combustion and detonation provided the radiator has the capacity to expel enough heat to run it at a lower temp. It “may” hurt MPG and emissions.
3: There is no such thing as “too much or too fast flow”. More flow = more cooling, period. All the fud about “moving to quickly through the radiator” is an ancient shade tree mechanic myth.

i agree with this on old cars and maybe your rocket. however
1: Running without a T-Stat may flow more water and put a sucksion on the lower rad. hose and suck it together.
2: Running a lower T-Stat in later model cars can prevent them from going into closed loop on the ecu and on Toyota's prevent overdrive from working. if they call for a 195 thermo i would use that. on a lot of cars they use temp to work the torque converter clutch.
example
a customer came in with the tcc applied all the time killing the engine when he stopped so i repaired that the next time i seen him he was very mad and said he lost 75 miles on a tank of gas after checking it out it was a bad thermostat. replaced thermostat and all was good.
on my 67 el camino i would cut the temp part off and just run the washer part but it was a real bummer in the winter time when u wanted to use the heater.

BigNorm said:

Why don't you just put a spring inside the lower hose? I don't know where to get one but I want to find out.

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Considered this however, the R3 pump inlet is a larger diameter than the hose bend, it flares outward as it enters the pump. I'm not comfortable that a little friction is going to hold the spring in place and prevent it from ending up inside the waterpump.

There's no accounting for the idiocy that comes out of Toyota or any manufacturer anymore, they over engineer stuff but then only half way commit to using technology so you end up with a hodgepodge of **** on late model cars.

Direct injection for example, can go jump right off an fing cliff. Yes it makes more power, yes it runs cleaner, but its not worth the headache.

Claviger said:

, yes it runs cleaner,

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Ah yes, emmisions. Of course If one were to take a 17:1 Carpenter motor - Direct Injection would allow it to be Diesel Converted. GO ON - You know you want to. R3-TDi. 100MPG and a shag load of torque.

joesoap said:

Yea it is magical init...its when a hot turns to cold it creates a vacuum and enables the rubber under the cap to lift and draw coolant from the "expansion/catch tank" and return the rad to a full state and atmospheric pressure is returned..clever idea if you have a fully functional cap.

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Actually there is a non return valve that opens when the pressure drops