I've been testing a few tunes from Wayne on the R3T. The latest tune opens the secondaries 100%. The stock tune for the R3T has the secondaries severely restricted. My guess is that is where most of the horsepower loss comes from.

I installed the D&D's, a drop in K&N (per D&D instructions) and removed the underseat snorkel. With those changes and the latest modified 20235 tune from Wayne the R3T is MUCH stronger. Where the bike would flatten out from 85-90 to the speed limiter at 120 it now pulls like a freight train all the way to the limiter. Launches are also much stronger. You need to be aware that you don't have that big 240 rear tire when whack open the throttle at low speeds.

I loaded a few test tunes for Wayne last night and the bike wouldn't start. He expected that, and all it took was a quick recovery to restore the tune. So, as he said, Wayne is hard at work getting the kinks ironed out.

I would certainly recommend purchasing a Tuneboy to anyone wanting to wake up their R3T.
 
Got the Raasks on, nice throaty sound :) bit dissappointed that the pipe slips over the header with no room for the gasket :( , have to use sealer. Haven't test rode it yet, got the tunes from Wayne but after downloading tune for aftermarket pipes I now get run on after turning off the key :shock: , will put this post in the Tuneboy thread too in the hopes someone knows why :?:
 
I am trying to get something done with Sam, which may be a long time .. ie preds for the R3T.... in the meantime I am also going down the d&d road with k&n and then the triumph tune until tuneboy solves their issues then getting the full open secondaries.
If I have to drive to Cali for Sam to do a one off it might just have to be that way...... good luck to all as the R3T can be a monster touring bike when we get done paving the way. :D :D :D
 
What issues have you found with the opening of the secondaries? I've found Wayne's tunes much better than the Triumph TORS tune. Several dyno runs confirmed a significant bump in power and torque.
 
GPM..... what tune are you using? Do you have triple K&N'S?
I have been using 20235TuneModSEC100_Mod_138hp_final but now I notice there is a 20256 1 (full power) tune and wonder what the difference is.
 
I'm running the same tune as you, and yes I have the K&Ns. The bike runs well and mileage is as expected, around the mid 30's.

As to the other tune, I'm not sure. The one you and I are running was developed after I made a couple of trips to the dyno, and then Wayne got his hands on an R3T and dyno'd it as well. That's why the name of the tune got so convoluted. We kept changing the name of the tune as we made changes. The new one MAY be the same thing, just renamed to match the naming conventions of the other tunes. Send Wayne an email if you're curious.
 
Thanks Harry.
I wasn't sure if the 20235 138hp Tune was specific for TOR's and 3 K&N's. I am very happy with this tune. Has a slight popping on decel that I kinda like. The 2056 1 tune description says snorkel underseat removed, so I assume it would be for single K&N.
Wayne is great, but my emails seem to get filtered to his spam box. Faster to ask questions here.
Did you relocate your coolant tank? Has anyone ever documented a power increase by relocating it?
 
tugboat tim said:
I am trying to get something done with Sam, which may be a long time .. ie preds for the R3T.... in the meantime I am also going down the d&d road with k&n and then the triumph tune until tuneboy solves their issues then getting the full open secondaries.
If I have to drive to Cali for Sam to do a one off it might just have to be that way...... good luck to all as the R3T can be a monster touring bike when we get done paving the way. :D :D :D


Simple solution:

Remove screws and pull the secondaries off.
 
Pilvi, did this three years ago, rode it for 2 after this, ran like a dreeam, some popping at throttle off but hardly at all! I,ve since sold the bike about a year ago.
 
GCalberta said:
Did you relocate your coolant tank? Has anyone ever documented a power increase by relocating it?

I just recently moved the coolant tank under the seat. Just switched the tubes and zip tied the tank in place. Works fine. I moved it to see if I could get more air to the filters. I cut the remaining part of the bottom of the bearclaw (that was covering the coolant tank) to help as well. Problem I was seeing was very high intake air temps.

Moving the bottle and cutting the rest of the bearclaw did little to improve the IAT. What made the biggest difference was removing the windshield lower piece. That hunk of plastic was creating a big area of stagnant air and the IAT was running 30 degrees or more above ambient. I'm now within about 10 degrees of ambient. I read somewhere that every 7 degrees is good for 1% gain in HP. No idea if that's accurate, but I do know that cooler air is good.
 
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