So you're ready for the next step. PM me with your direct email address, and I will send you the updated version of the ECU map that started this thread (by the way, this has been around so long, the original poster has retired and no longer participates here).

And you mis-read the thread if you think this is child's play. Very few people are knowledgeable enough to actually change the A/F tables in the ECU maps -- it is to that I am referring -- yes, many people load new maps -- including me.

So good, you have the cable. Install TuneECU, follow the instructions, connect to your bike. When you have done that, come back here reporting your success, and we'll send you a map to try, and ask you to report back your results.

Also, the results are more meaningful if you have a baseline -- hopefully you've already done this -- run a few full tanks through, noting mileage, perceived throttle response, and so on. Then, when you load your new map, and ride it, you'll really note the differences.

Suggestions only all.

Good luck. Have fun.
 
So you're ready for the next step. PM me with your direct email address, and I will send you the updated version of the ECU map that started this thread (by the way, this has been around so long, the original poster has retired and no longer participates here).

And you mis-read the thread if you think this is child's play. Very few people are knowledgeable enough to actually change the A/F tables in the ECU maps -- it is to that I am referring -- yes, many people load new maps -- including me.

So good, you have the cable. Install TuneECU, follow the instructions, connect to your bike. When you have done that, come back here reporting your success, and we'll send you a map to try, and ask you to report back your results.

Also, the results are more meaningful if you have a baseline -- hopefully you've already done this -- run a few full tanks through, noting mileage, perceived throttle response, and so on. Then, when you load your new map, and ride it, you'll really note the differences.

Suggestions only all.

I think my original question was clear. I was asking about loading maps not changing A/F tables. I'm not sure where you got that from. If that refers to what I'm guessing it does, I can't foresee any time I would need or want to do that.

My question was pretty simple. I still haven't received an answer. I've been warned about how a different process is difficult (?) but no answer to my question about whether the map that started this removes the rev limiter and how to download the map. :)

BTW, no need for the warnings about how difficult a job is with me. Really! :) That should save you some typing. When I post a question, I'm really just looking for the answer to my specific question but I do appreciate your responses. I can do any job but, when I haven't done it before (such as re-mapping an ECU), I sometimes do some research first to make sure I don't miss something.
 
I changed maps several times, but to be honest, I go back and reread the instructions here every time, my memory isn't so good any more.

Overview
 
No, grasshopper, you keep repeating in multiple threads "My question is clear" -- if you have to keep repeating that, that is prima facie evidence your questions are convoluted.

And the folks here often provide extra information, just as a good parent may answer a different question than the child asks, because a thousand years of collected knowledge here often suggests that the question as asked indicates a lack of knowledge that is necessary (or at least useful) context for the seemingly simple answer. And apparently being a new kid on the block, you don't appreciate that.

Specifically, yes, the ECU map I would provide (when you have successfully established connection with your bike) is for your bike as currently configured, and yes, the rev limit is removed in that map.

The map increases fueling, providing the added performance, and at the cost of reduced mileage.

While others have loaded it successfully, if you fry your ECU in the process, I reject any and all responsibility for what you do with your bike, and will only provide the map when you accept that.
 
Joe, what are the changes to the revised map? I have the original from powertripp from way back when, but I must have missed what the changes are as I read through this thread. Or maybe I did see them and my poor memory is kicking in.

Regardless, I have the original in my ECU at the moment and a 0 map in my PCV.

Thanks!
 
I have not done a pair-wise comparison, and simply cannot answer what changes are there. I took it on faith that the ECU maps I have are improvements over the originals.
 
Just so we're clear. Any map somebody sends you to load WILL AT BEST be an approximation. Uploading/Downloading maps to ECUs is a piece of cake UNTIL it goes wrong.

Step1 - Get cable, download and install TuneECU and cable drivers, connect to ECU and PC - make sure you can see your ECU. Forget everything else until this works.

Step2 - Play around a bit - read TuneECU manual with the software up and connected. READ ONLY - Save a copy of this map somewhere safe (RTFM)

Step3 - Make a note of EVERY change you have made to the intake/exhaust - And mail HansO and/or detail here. Wait for a map. Trust.

Step4 - Connect and upload map. BE PATIENT. Once it's in - the bike should simply start and run. If not see opening comment.

Unless you've immersed yourself in ALL the maps allow you to do and compared this to HOW YOU RIDE - I honestly doubt you'll understand every nuance. Almost nobody plays with some of the apparently insignificant options in TuneECU like the F/L switch values. And doing so can make a big change in how the bike runs.

TuneECU has a MAP COMPARE OPTION - - understanding what they are requires you to REALLY understand the tool and data - see step 2.

If you have a PCV - consider the MAP/GEAR option. Their are gear specific parameters in the stock ECU that TuneECU does not give you access to. Alain can only do so much with TuneECU. Not to mention some of the more complex adjustments open the door to Mr ****UP and I would not want that hassle either.
 
I have been reading through here, and I have a couple quick question I hope someone can answer. Is there any point to installing this tune without doing anything to the exhaust? In other words, do I need to wait until I can add new exhaust to experience any tune benefit? Also, lots of posts about TORS, but I can't find anything that says what TORS is. I will likely feel stupid, but what is TORS? Lastly, are there any concerns, or has anyone had any bad experiences with trying to install this tune, and turning their ECM into a brick?
 
Or you could take it to Carpenter Racing, they'll wake it up a bit for you. ;)
YOU can go for as much as 265 HP or just change to the CARPENTER exhaust and an intake and retune for 165 + HP thats a big gain from the 95 HP of the stock bike
 
ART @IMFASTTOO I asked before -- where do I get it tuned the way you say -- will Carpenter do it -- who does it anywhere in the mid-Atlantic states ?
 
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