R3 Valve adjustment tool

[ruzzle]

Correct. It won't work as is, it has no holes on the cam ladder to bolt onto. But it MIGHT be able to be modified. Couple of us here in Oz are looking into the possibilities this week while we have a head on the bench to play with. We'll let you know.

The shims are a standard 25 mm diam flat shim and are commonly used, definitely in other bikes. There are also independent shim manufacturers making them - "Precision Shims" in Oz, for example. Prolly cost you around five or six bucks each. Triumph dealers OUGHT to have a box of shims to play with - whenever you change one, one is "left over" and goes in the box. Swap job!!

Triumph supply them in 0.025 mm thickness increments, from 2.000 mm to 3.200 mm. Independent manufacturers may only supply in 0.050 mm increments, but that's fine enough to get you within Triumph's acceptable range of valve clearances.

I THINK engines are prolly built with shims around the middle of the range - i.e., 2.600 - 2.900 mm. Makes sense to allow for manufacturing tolerances???

 

[RocketEd]

I'm waiting until 20K to check mine; either the dealer (at the 20K service) or I'll have a Carpenter 240 pack <maybe> installed, which would also take care of the valve check with new cams and titanium shims anyway....

Isn't there a difference in the timing of the first valve check on Roadster vs the older Rockets? First one on the Roadster is at 10K and then again at 30K. Or maybe I've disremembered what the recomendation was on my '04.

 

[GCalberta]

The 25mm Yamaha shims work. I bought a selection from Andrews Motorsports. They had the half sizes that my dealer did not. I got tired of ordering from my dealer and having shims show up 3 days later, that were "close" to the sizes I ordered and accompanied by a $20 collect bill on the freight.
Andrews Motorsports has the half sizes not found in the K&L assortment kits.

 

[Willtill]

Isn't there a difference in the timing of the first valve check on Roadster vs the older Rockets? First one on the Roadster is at 10K and then again at 30K. Or maybe I've disremembered what the recomendation was on my '04.

You know, I just looked at the maintenance table for my 08 Classic. Valve checks are done at 10K and then again at 30K; or one year and three years; whichever come first.

Not sure why I had 20K stuck in my mind; as a valve check item. At any rate, I'll have it done at that time since I foregone the check at 10K

 

[ruzzle]

OK have spent a bit of time playing around with the cylinder head and cams.

As mentioned above, the Triumph tool will not bolt on to the cam ladder of the Rocket, there are no holes provided to attach it. Only available spots are the cam ladder bolts, undesirable.

In addition - the shim is "lifted" from the bucket by inserting a small pick thru a slot in the side of the bucket to get under the shim.

When the valve is fully open, the bucket is completely within the bore in which it operates and that slot is inaccessible, so you can't get under the shim.

It may be possible to lift the shim from the bucket with a magnet, but you only have 8 mm to work in, and the shim is about 3 mm thick... so the magnet would have to be less than 5mm thick.

Would be very surprised if there was a way to do it without removing the camshafts.

... and for the life of me, I can't see how that Ebay tool could attach....

 

[Battersea]

Good post Ruzzle, might have been interested in that tool.

Although my bike is over 2 years old its only done just over 5k so am still 'in' on mileage but 'out' on age.

However a guy I use for classic bike bits has a 2006 R3 with 65k on it and apart from oil and filters has only had one throttle body adjustment. He says there is no tappet rattle so he's leaving it alone. :shock:

 

[Fred F.]

Good post Ruzzle, might have been interested in that tool.

Although my bike is over 2 years old its only done just over 5k so am still 'in' on mileage but 'out' on age.

However a guy I use for classic bike bits has a 2006 R3 with 65k on it and apart from oil and filters has only had one throttle body adjustment. He says there is no tappet rattle so he's leaving it alone. :shock:

That logic is somewhat flawed in that the valve clearances tend to tighten up as they wear. Once all the clearance is gone, the valve isn't seating properly and can cause burnt valves (from hot gases leaking past at high velocities) or carbon formation on the valve/seat mating surfaces. I would rather have mine on the loose side than to tight. My .0023 cents worth.

 

[Navigator]

buy one and rent it out.
It MAY not go the way of Marcus' front end tool,
which has apparently disappeared from the face of the Earth
as I'm still waiting on my turn with it.
Wish I knew who has it, I'd sure send them a polite PM asking for it.
My springs have been sitting here for quite awhile now...

No it hasn't. I've got it Skip. I sent it to Fred (I believe) and he sent it back. I haven't done my forks yet. I was just going to give it back to Marcus after I'm done.

 

[Battersea]

That logic is somewhat flawed in that the valve clearances tend to tighten up as they wear. Once all the clearance is gone, the valve isn't seating properly and can cause burnt valves (from hot gases leaking past at high velocities) or carbon formation on the valve/seat mating surfaces. I would rather have mine on the loose side than to tight. My .0023 cents worth.

Would have to agree with you there and its not something I would be able to live with, but he's happy. :-|

Have to say his bike doesn't show any symptoms that shows any problems, he rides it like he's stolen it. :razz:

 

[Blastedbones]

Would have to agree with you there and its not something I would be able to live with, but he's happy. :-|

Have to say his bike doesn't show any symptoms that shows any problems, he rides it like he's stolen it. :razz:

They run best that way !:lol: