R3 lighting problem

You have almost certainly blown fuses - check Fuses 8, 10 & 11

Fuse 8 alone would account for neither headlights nor tail light working.
Fuse 10 affects only the tail light
Fuse 11 only the headlights.
You have almost certainly blown fuses - check Fuses 8, 10 & 11

Fuse 8 alone would account for neither headlights nor tail light working.
Fuse 10 affects only the tail light
Fuse 11 only the headlights.

Hi Decosse,
That was my initial thought, all fuses are in good working order that is why i can not understand the problem. All I can think of now is that the starter relay has blown as that is all that I have not checked on the wiring circuit but I am not an expert wiring by any stretch of the imagination.
 
Hello all,
I am new to the group.
I have a problem with my R3. Fitted some LED headlights to the bike & the back light has stopped working. Tested the wiring & no power coming down the wire. Traced back to the connection under the side panel, tested again no power.. Checked wiring diagram & it shows the power for th back light comes from th headlight 2. Removed both headlights & placed them on top of the headlight shell whilst carrying out further checks. Switched of ignition & when I switched back on head lights are now not working either. Have checked all fuses & they are all good. I am totally baffled now. Can anyone help please ?
NOW the bikers are coplaining about the BRIGHT LED lights they dont want them riding behind them they are saying they are annoying and TOO BRIGHT
 
Hi Sorted the problem out it was a wire connecting into the fuse box

Thanks to all for your assistance it is very much appreciated

I put some daymakers on my '13 roadster. I'm blowing 5amp fuses. I've switched to a spare 15amp fuse and am going to try a 10amp to (try to) protect the system. Stupid question to ask after making the switch to day makers (legit from the Harley Shop, and installed right on to the same wires as the OEM lights), I expect them to draw more current, but is my electrical system going to fry because of it?
 
The stator/RR/battery are up to the task. The wiring may not be, I can't say with certainty either way, haven't ever really checked.

There is a significant overhead amperage in the stock system to account for accessories in addition to the stock electronics.
 
I put some daymakers on my '13 roadster. I'm blowing 5amp fuses. I've switched to a spare 15amp fuse and am going to try a 10amp to (try to) protect the system. Stupid question to ask after making the switch to day makers (legit from the Harley Shop, and installed right on to the same wires as the OEM lights), I expect them to draw more current, but is my electrical system going to fry because of it?

Whoa now. LED won't draw more power than halogen, rather the reverse. A 55 watt halogen bulb is something like 4.5 amps, and a JW Speaker 8700 Evo 2 (which I run at the moment) is 2.5 amps.

If you're blowing fuses, you should be looking for a short or a wiring issue, in my opinion.

And never ever put a stronger fuse on if you're blowing the stock fuses. The point of a fuse is to fry before your wiring does. Putting a 15 amp in where a 5 amp should go is... less than great.
 
Whoa now. LED won't draw more power than halogen, rather the reverse. A 55 watt halogen bulb is something like 4.5 amps, and a JW Speaker 8700 Evo 2 (which I run at the moment) is 2.5 amps.

If you're blowing fuses, you should be looking for a short or a wiring issue, in my opinion.

And never ever put a stronger fuse on if you're blowing the stock fuses. The point of a fuse is to fry before your wiring does. Putting a 15 amp in where a 5 amp should go is... less than great.
LOL yeah... Not feeling very happy about it. And REALLY not looking forward to chasing down a fried wire/other stuff... Thanks for the response! If it were a short wouldn't it be intermittent? Well no, I guess it could be a continual short... Things were ok for a while, now when I pop in a 5amp fuse lights come on for a second then the fuse blows.

I thought the OEM lights were incandescent. This is NOT a common problem for people who have switched over to day makers? If not then more like an issue with the installation then. I have had issues with the fuse blowing for the license plate light. Sounds like maybe a wiring issue from the factory.
 
Sound like a wiring issue. Most (if not all) LED replacements draw significantly less current than their stock counterparts.

I'd start looking at the connectors under the right side cover, by the ECU, maybe ones partially pushed together and grounding out.
 
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