Question about Noise while releasing clutch



*The sealing screw (#1 in first diagram) is removed along with the fixing to separate the bowl from the master cylinder (but don't do that for this procedure- just explaining what they're both for). They are both submerged under brake/clutch fluid when full. It turns out that the "sealing screw" is really a bleeder for the master cylinder.

MC Bleed Instructions -

1) Suck out some (not all!) nasty old brake fluid. You don't want to introduce air into the system!
Overfill with fresh DOT 4 so that the bleeder screw is submerged in fluid.

2) Slowly work the lever while loosening that one screw. Air will come out and fluid will travel in. Close before releasing lever. Repeat that until you have no air bubbles. I also used a rubber mallet to bang on the banjo bolts and tapped on the lines to help move any trapped air along.

  • The bleed screw for the master cylinder is a 6mm.

When finished remove excess fluid to bring it to the proper fill level.
 
Last edited:
Yesterday, I didn't experience any juddering at all, even after starting from a cold start, rode 100 kilometers through out the day and going through multiple stops, waits, and starts during the ride. The outside temperature was 15°C / 59°F, and I'm not entirely sure why, but I've noticed significantly less juddering compared to before—it's almost non-existent now.
 
Last edited:
so what was your fix?
or are you waiting for a patent pending? ;-)
 
I removed/replaced clutch lever Brembo 100$, removed all the black gunk/dirt/degreased moving parts from photo below and reseated the clutch lever again into master cylinder.


today had a small judder only one time
Started bike at 16C/ 60F in morning, no judder, went to business in city using highway, no judder all this time.
Left the business after 7hours at 25C/ 77F, took the highway and went to city roads, then it happened once and it was a minor judder, while on red light.

I will change clutch fluid and see if that helps removing that minor judder as well.
 
Last edited:
i was just planning to take it out from top and call it a day, not going to remove radiator for now. what you say?
Go back and check the instructions I included for bleeding the MC. You don't pull the radiator for that- it's in the bowl. If you extract too much fluid from the bowl and air enters the system then you're probably going to pull the radiator to bleed. Just extract half the fluid at a time and you'll be fine. Instructions above- less than five additional minutes.

@TheFALCON it probably won't make a difference if no air came out, but at least you have some fresh fluid in there.
 
I picked up my bike from the dealer yesterday and the clutch judder seems to have been resolved but I'll know for sure at the end of next week. They removed the clutch basket as a whole, inspected it, found nothing wrong, re-installed it and the issue seems to be gone. They believe that it may have been caused by an alignment issue during factory install and that the Outer Friction Plate Slot (#2 first diagram) may have been the cause due to improper alignment within the slot. I experienced no noise/judder yesterday or this morning.
 

Attachments

  • R3_Clutch_Judder_1.png
    85.3 KB · Views: 23
  • R3_Clutch_Judder_2.png
    46.2 KB · Views: 23