Pulling to Left!

Okee-fine...this is my first exposure; I hope it doesn't require a avian-swine flue inoculation. Sure sounds incidental but what do I know: I barely know Jack.
 
Wow! So many replies in less than 12 hours!
I have got crash bars fitted so will try taking them off to see what happens. Also the brake pads binding seems to make sense so will try replacing those if it still pulls after removing the crash bars.
Wont get round to it until the weekend but I will let you know how it goes!

Cheers.
 
Just in case you don't know, be sure to prop up the motor before you remove the bolt-not that it would come out without some sort of jack or similar under the pan. The top bolt secures that massive engine.
 
that's HeR3tic, to my friends, and hush my mouth! I am caught in my unawares. Somebody, diagram this for me please?

A Rocket III is navigating inside Singapore. That takes a special amount of self control. Perhaps a presidential candidate is at hand.
 
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The brakes are easy to test ... get that big flat blade screwdriver and push the pads apart and away from the rotor. Don't touch the front brakes and go for a test ride.
You guys are frightening me with the crash bar thing ... I was contemplating getting me some and now I find out they could tweek the bike into crabbing down the highway!
****!
Oh, and I just remembered something from my dealership days ... the crown in the road (for water drainage) will cause cars, bikes and little red wagons to pull downhill. example: three lane highway- left lane will pull left- right lane will pull right- center lane will wander back and forth depending on where the crown peaks. Just something to consider while testing for the real problem.
I'l like to hear more about that crash bar geometry thing, very interesting.
 
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wive's tales.

I guess, the crash (tip over) bar installation could effect the steering if, the bars were installed with the bike sitting on the side stand and the bolt was hammered through the hole in the block and through the frame ears.

Now, I installed my Rivco bars a few years ago with the bike on the side stand (remember, I belly ached about the poor fit and how I had to take a die grinder to the lower weldment to get it to fit...) and I had to use an alignment bar to get the capscrew back through the frame ears and motor bolck...and I torqued it back up with the bike on the side stand (it was a mutha getting that bolt in there with the engine fallen down and the holes not lining up and all). Guess what, I've never had a pull to the left or right because the tolerance between the frame holes and the hole in the block is close, that is, everything has to line up to get the capscrew back in.

The engine on a Rock is a stressed member. It's basically a monocoque frame design, like so many bikes aree today and that makes the frame/engine combination, extremely rigid and flex free.

I think it's a caliper hanging up. There is no way that through hole and the frame holes are large enough in diameter to cause a steering pull either way and the Rocket isn't a flexi-flyer in the frame department anyway.
 
Ditto engine top bolt/dresser bar top bolt. Also check rear shocks are on same setting and that the pinch bolts on the left bottom fork are tightened to spec.