Pipercross Intake Mod

[Mittzy]

Protest! What were you thinking - that overflow hose should be BLACK not some wimpy clear

Yeah I know it's coming, I originally made it this way so I could see if any fluid was coming out.

 

[Mittzy]

I only ever made 6 of these, I still have 2 and one is on @HansO 's wreck

 

[Mittzy]

Tish and Pish - Samco naturally.

I have a set of black Samco hoses to go on too - when I get around to it

 

[HansO]

Yeah I know it's coming, I originally made it this way so I could see if any fluid was coming out.

I actually found some red hose at local auto supply shop looks better than the clear, if not damaged I will see if they let me swap it back to my old one (if they write it off)

 

[HansO]

Well Well Well my 3D printed velocity stacks were found in a box in the garage today! I shot some pics. These are a bolt in affair once youve cut the holes in the back plate. I am going to finish the project this Saturday with pictures as a how to. I'll make the printed parts available for order for the community after a couple of weeks if no cracks develop or warping occurs. I don't expect ANY strength or warp issues, the design is stout.

Its going to be seeeexy when I'm done but here are some conceptual photos.

they are very sexy, you are more than just a pretty face

 

[Claviger]

So I started getting along.

First you need to take the base plate and figure out where you want it. There is room for forward backward and up and down adjustment.

Once you know where you want it use a piece of cardboard to template the inner edges of the throttle body bores so you have spacing reference. As such (pic is not lined up right but the secondary actuation rod provides a nice vertical center line).

NOW take that template and transfer the bores onto your backplate. There are a lot of ways to do this, I'll let you figure it out the how. One note, ensure its level on the backplate so your filter actually sits straight when mounted:

 

[Claviger]

You don't want to do this twice right? Go measure the spacing with a tool, caliper, ruler, whatever you have available that is accurate. Use the INNER distance between TB bores and verify your high tech template was accurate (mine was luckily). More to follow in this space.

Once you have your layout you need to verify nothing is fouling, mine is "just" going to work:

 

[Claviger]

More coming

Not confident in a perfect fit I decided to make a "test" backplate.

 

[Claviger]

 

[Claviger]

Taking some notes for velocity stack revision, first off I need to make them slight (0.5mm) smaller ID because of material shrinkage. Then make them 3/4 inch longer so they sit flush against the TB instead of using the coupler to make that space, will flow better with revision.

Everything mocks up well though just need to transfer template to metal and start cutting

Also, bolt in tabs can go, the lip incorporated there to seal the box butts up against the back plate sandwiching it between the coupler and the lip, so it's solid without screws. One less thing to print and 12 less holes to drill.