When I turn on the engine, the side lights work o.k. , but I have no main / dip beam when engine running.
I've checked all the fuses, and all appear o.k.-- However, looking in the owners manual and checking with the actual fuse box, it does not appear as written?.
Parking light & everything seems to be normal, but I can't seem to find which fuse operate the main beam.
Heres a piccie of the fuse box, can some kind person tell me what controls what?.
.. Also the fuses don't all correspond with the amp' recommendations in the hand book.
Yeah juss been out & checked again---put it on a tester, and it was dud----should have done that 1st, close vision is **** a.t.m..
Thanks Steve
p.s....... don't get feckin' old m8
Hey warp9.9---- I have the i.d. as you say.... but the fuses don't seem to be at the proper amperage, so tomorrow I'll make sure they are as the book states, and replace them all.
Thanks fer takin' the time m8
Yeah juss been out & checked again---put it on a tester, and it was dud----should have done that 1st, close vision is **** a.t.m..
Thanks Steve
p.s....... don't get feckin' old m8
Hey warp9.9---- I have the i.d. as you say.... but the fuses don't seem to be at the proper amperage, so tomorrow I'll make sure they are as the book states, and replace them all.
Thanks fer takin' the time m8
FYI...I have been spending a great deal of time studying my electrical system on my R3T. The two fuses on the far left are switched to your ignition. The two on the far left are spares. Fuse number 9 appears to have been bumped up from 15 amp to a 20 amp fuse. The blue/green marks on the fuse holder represents the power side coming into the fuses from the switch or battery. In an emergency.....if you actually jumper fuse positions 2, 5 and 9 together in your fuse box you can bypass the ignition switch and should be able to start you bike should your ignition switch ever fail. Pigtail fuses to connect 5 & 9 together and a 30 amp inline fuse across 2 with a pigtail to bring power to 5 & 9. 12 gage wire for the 30 amp fuse jumper. Pigtails should be away from the paint marks. Also, the best place to tie in a lite, yet switched current draw accessory is the yellow wire on the right under the side cover. Never crimp splice... but rather solder a lead onto the wire. Tape or heat shrink the connection.
Those two fuses are just a couple of fuses Grampy has laying there in the opening. That space/opening is actually the holding spot for the fuse removal tool/clip. Also, fuse position 8 is showing a fuse when actually, on the R3T at least, it is not used nor does it have any connection terminals in that spot.
I'm correcting this for the Roadster...fuse position 8 is fused for Instrument illumination and position lights
**Those two fuses are just a couple of fuses Grampy has laying there in the opening. That space/opening is actually the holding spot for the fuse removal tool/clip. Also, fuse position 8 is showing a fuse when actually, on the R3T at least, it is not used nor does it have any connection terminals in that spot.
I'm correcting this for the Roadster...fuse position 8 is fused for Instrument illumination and position lights