No Booster Plug for the R3

The AFXIED is a voltage manipulator between the ECU and oxygen sensor that signals altered voltages...generally enabling enrichment of closed loop AFRs as far as 13.6-13.8... and as it's a narrow band sensor, is ignored outside closed loop.

Wadejesu has one, reckons it's good gear. I'm gonna give it a whirl too.

You're right of course. We SHOULD use a dyno tune.... but then...........ah well.

ruzzle said:

The AFXIED is a voltage manipulator between the ECU and oxygen sensor that signals altered voltages...generally enabling enrichment of closed loop AFRs as far as 13.6-13.8... and as it's a narrow band sensor, is ignored outside closed loop.

Wadejesu has one, reckons it's good gear. I'm gonna give it a whirl too.

You're right of course. We SHOULD use a dyno tune.... but then...........ah well.

Click to expand...

That's the exact opposite of the booster plug if i understand right. The Booster plug works only when accelerating and/or *not* in closed loop. Would be interesting to fit both
(and hope the ECU won't throw a tantrum )

Not exactly... the "Booster Plug", as described, is just a circuit that alters the air inlet temp signal.... it would be taken into account at all times the engine is running. If you wanted it to work in a given TPS range you could tap into the TPS signal and have a little microprocessor do the logic work, but I've not seen any that work this way (it would raise the cost significantly).

I'm not going to say that dyno's are the only way to go, but DATA is the only way to go. Dyno's make it much easier and safer (both for your health and wallet). However, I tuned the first couple forced induction bikes I had out on the open road.... but I had the ability to datalog the relevant channels. "Without data, you just have an opinion.": I can't remember where I heard hat, but it is 100% true. Open road tuning eventually became risky enough that I bought a dyno solely for personal use... it will be cheaper than the first hospital bill from hitting an animal or 150mph over speeding ticket I would eventually get. I still get the chance to have a little fun on the roads here and there, but I can let discretion be the better part of valor now.

Larry_M said:

That's the exact opposite of the booster plug if i understand right. The Booster plug works only when accelerating and/or *not* in closed loop. Would be interesting to fit both
(and hope the ECU won't throw a tantrum )

Click to expand...

According to BP:

“In conditions where you maintain constant RPM and throttle opening while cruising on the open roads, the feedback from the lambda sensor will adjust the mixture back to the original level, and our small tuning device will sit idle and wait for something to happen. This is fine – you don't need the richer mixture at level speed.

As soon as RPM or throttle opening moves, the fuel map will shift horizontally or vertically on the 15 x 15 grid, and the lambda sensor feedback will be temporarily disabled. This means that the ECU runs open loop for a short period every time we change RPM or throttle, and the enrichment from the AIT sensor modification kicks in exactly at this point.

As the enrichment will only be effective under these conditions, the extra fuel consumption will only be aprox. One third of the 6%, so if your usual fuel consumption was 5.0 liter / 100 km, it will now be 5.1 liter. Still while maintaining all the positive effects.”

just being a smart ass
we all know the more gas we dump into the motor the better it works

dougl said:

According to BP:

“In conditions where you maintain constant RPM and throttle opening while cruising on the open roads, the feedback from the lambda sensor will adjust the mixture back to the original level, and our small tuning device will sit idle and wait for something to happen. This is fine – you don't need the richer mixture at level speed.

As soon as RPM or throttle opening moves, the fuel map will shift horizontally or vertically on the 15 x 15 grid, and the lambda sensor feedback will be temporarily disabled. This means that the ECU runs open loop for a short period every time we change RPM or throttle, and the enrichment from the AIT sensor modification kicks in exactly at this point.

As the enrichment will only be effective under these conditions, the extra fuel consumption will only be aprox. One third of the 6%, so if your usual fuel consumption was 5.0 liter / 100 km, it will now be 5.1 liter. Still while maintaining all the positive effects.”

Click to expand...

That's a very disingenuous way to explain it... Their device does not change what it does at any point; it is a static error % on the IAT device. The closed loop function will actually correct the improper mixture caused by altering the IAT signal when it is closed loop, and they are telling you that when the system isn't correcting it that you will benefit from having an incorrect IAT signal (because the closed loop cannot correct it). Maybe it will, maybe it won't, but it's a 100% shot in the dark as to whether or not it's actually helpful without instrumenting/measurement. More fuel/timing at any given moment might not actually be helpful!

There are also a few other conditions where closed loop is not active, such as portions of warm-up, deceleration, WOT, etc. IAT signals are used in every fuel calculation, not just the closed loop functions. Also, if you've ever messed with a narrow band sensor, you can tell pretty fast that their range of adjustment is rather, erm, narrow... and the response is not what I would call outstanding. There is also the whole issue of allowable adjustment/trim range for an O2 algorithm, and things like short tem/long term fuel trims in ECU's that support that. And should I even mention things like O2 sensor error and/or degradation?

TL;DR: If you want a good (custom) tune, use a good tuning tool. If you don't want a good (custom) tune, just ride it the way the manufacturer intended. If you want more fuel all the time, crush the fuel pressure regulator for a few psi.... it will do the same thing as advertised there.

just some useless info
on the old cars
had a carb that was flooding and i was trying to keep it running when i glanced at the cat and it was glowing red hot.
the older cars did not have heated o2 sensors so the would not work at idle so when u gave them some gas they would heat up start working then go into close loop.
the newer cars have o2 sensors that r 4 wire (two wires for heater element) so they go into closed loop real fast.
i guess the point i am trying to make years ago we seen all kinds of cars with bad cats (u could put the trans into neutral hold the gas to the floor and the motor would only rev about 3000 rpm) the newer cars we do not see a lot of bad cats because they r better designed.
i like fuel injection great idea
hate electronic in the transmission.

Friend of mine put a Booster Plug on his Street Scrambler and came round raving about what a huge difference it made. Took literally 30 seconds to swap it from his bike to mine to try, as I was curious but nevertheless very sceptical. He was right. You could feel it immediately with more go and much smoother throttle. I was impressed but still not convinced that simply adding fuel was a good thing.
A month later his bike was running like a pig, his plugs were completely carbonned up and you could actually see a build up starting in his exhaust. I guess where it’s an easy install you could run one but take it out once a month to blow the crap out. I don’t know.
Anyway, BPs are cheap, easy to install and seem to work well, at least initially. They sound too good to be true, so probably are. Just my 2c.

If anybody is really busted up by not having the power booster available, you can hack up your wiring to install this even sketchier option:

Richard Albans has managed to install a PCV on a new R3. You can dyno tune that.