New battery - Motobatt

I have the 625 also and below a constant 40-35 degrees the bike will not start,
even with the bike on constant trickle with the expensive odyssey charger.
I had to rig up an aluminum plate strapped to the sump, with dual 150 watt heater pads.
The heater has to be on for at least 1.5 hrs to get it started.
Wonder if higher CCA are the answer?
I'd hate to waste more cash on a battery that won't improve cold starts.
Very disappointed with the money I've spent on the Odyssey setup and the poor results.
 
yep, lucky to live where it doesnt get too cold, and the bike stays in the garage at night.

I do know that my stock battery days are numbered, why I'm looking at battery threads to begin with.
 
..i'll try that motobatt that ireco started the thread about..and the fact that R34ME gives it high marks is enough for me..and he's a tech in a Triumph shop if I remember right..
 
The heater has to be on for at least 1.5 hrs to get it started.
Wonder if higher CCA are the answer?
Been reading this thread and it sounds to me as if it's more to do with there being the right conditions for ignition in the bores. I had a similar problem back in the '80's with a couple of Laverda Montjuics I owned.

As long as they were cranked over daily then they'd start first push in ANY temp - and I mean any. But leave the bores 72 hours without use and the only way to get any BANG (even in summer - Ok British summer) was take the plugs out and heat them on my mums stove until they were well hot. They'd flood before the battery went flat.

Would also be interesting to correlate the non starting to filter setups etc.
 
I would imagine that most of the Rocket starting probs are to do with no/slow cranking, rather than firing??????
 
Mine cranks over fine. I give it three second bursts, and wait about 10 seconds between them. If it hasn't started by the fifth go then the cranking gets very slow very quickly, and it won't start till I connect it to a charger or other battery. Then it starts straight up.

Exactly how mine behaves...

I also noticed that the negative battery cable going to the battery terminal becomes warm after repeated attempts to start, and the positive cable to the battery terminal does not. Had noticed this yesterday when I had my seat off; in preparation for reconnecting the battery charger to the Odessay.

Normally, I've felt warmth on the positive cables during large current draw. Very weird. Must be the "ghost of Lucas" electronics?
 
Exactly how mine behaves...

I also noticed that the negative battery cable going to the battery terminal becomes warm after repeated attempts to start, and the positive cable to the battery terminal does not. Had noticed this yesterday when I had my seat off; in preparation for reconnecting the battery charger to the Odessay.

Normally, I've felt warmth on the positive cables during large current draw. Very weird. Must be the "ghost of Lucas" electronics?

from what it sounds like I would say no matter how many amps we have the cable should be increased a bit. I personally thought they were a bit small I will have to check into making some larger ones. I know wires are sized by th eamount of amperage that goes thru them but could not tell you if bigger was better in this case. Maybe we could hear from the electricians on the forum.
 
I know wires are sized by the amount of amperage that goes thru them but could not tell you if bigger was better in this case. Maybe we could hear from the electricians on the forum.
FATTER WIRES means less effective electrical resistance. Can't hurt to move to 475/0.40 wire
- this would allow 415AMP constant current.

But if it's cranking over for SECONDS and not firing then I'd still suspect unsuitable vapour mix in the bores for sparked ignition.

This - whilst old is still valid - http://autospeed.com/cms/title_Petrol-and-Driving-Performance/A_111420/article.html
 
just curious but would switching to a set of higher output ignition coils help by giving a bigger fatter spark?
 
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