Steve, the camera picks up the torque angle gauge great. My eyes not so much.
If you arent familiar, the head, crank ladder, big end bolts, etc are torqued in stages with a torque wrench, with the final being torque angle not an actual torque using a torque wrench. Hope that makes more sense?!
Steve, the camera picks up the torque angle gauge great. My eyes not so much.
If you arent familiar, the head, crank ladder, big end bolts, etc are torqued in stages with a torque wrench, with the final being torque angle not an actual torque using a torque wrench. Hope that makes more sense?!
Its just a way to eliminate drag torque. Crazy thing is I worked on helicopters and jets for over 25 years and never once used torque angle. We would measure drag torque, then add the drag torque to the specified torque to get a final torque , per fastener!
I see you correctly ignored the manual and followed experience, and took the head off with the oil tank still in place.
Just make sure the coolant temp sensor and thermostat are on the head before putting it back on the block
I see you correctly ignored the manual and followed experience, and took the head off with the oil tank still in place.
Just make sure the coolant temp sensor and thermostat are on the head before putting it back on the block
We use to use an anti friction grease on the head bolts of 8v71's. Latter, before I retired (10 years ago), they were introducing torque angle. Kinda dummy proof I guess. New bolts because of thread stretch
If your curious what the shim under bucket looks like.....everything was in place and clean. Also, I can see some of the value of a shim under, but you still run a risk of spitting a shim if you get valve float. Only this way the shim is trapped by the bucket. I assumed (incorrectly) that the shim had some type of retension?) Also, if anyone needs stock shims, springs, buckets send me a pm. Just pay postage. Those shims are pricey!