Mccruise assistance

vanguard138 said:

So, now they are saying that I do not need the T. Aweful tight quarters back there. So, by the schematics it appears the rear pipe is what needs to be removed and the pipe plugged with something. And their pipe attached to cylinder 3.

Click to expand...

I think what they are saying is to remove one of the hoses from one cylinder at the tee at one of the TEE's and plug the hose and fit the MCCruise hose in its place on the TEE from which OEM hose was removed - that would make for it (and the canister) being connected to TWO cylinders.
I would believe they are suggesting that method in lieu of you not having a TEE
However I would go with the TEE since you now have it anyway, giving you vacuum from all three cylinders.

OK, I see what you are saying.

Do they make actual plugs for these?

If going that route, rather plug the hose, you can remove the hose altogether at the TB and put a rubber plug over that nipple (like they do on bikes without the Emissions system)
But again, since you have the new TEE I would use it, rather than taking one of the cylinders out.

I thought they were,saying to remove the hose from cylinder 3 and put their hose on, then plug the hose that was removed .

But maybe not, they are speaking Aussie

OK, latest response feom McCruise.


Keep the check valve always, the cruise will not work without it.


1.If you disconnect B from one cylinder as I suggested in my last email, plug the open hose on the T you disconnected with a screw or a bolt or fold the end of the hose over and tie it to block it off. The best solution would be to get some new hose and replace the section with the T in it so you can remove the T altogether.

2.Then connect the cruise hose to the vacuum port that no longer has a hose on it.


Alternatively you can connect as I suggest below, which may be simpler to do.


You can T into line B with the T you bought if you want. Keep it as close to the cylinders as possible. If possible put your T between two cylinders (say between #2 and #3). That is probably the easiest way to do it, and will have no impact on the bike’s charcoal canister at all, and with the T in between the cylinders this will give good vacuum supply to the cruise control. Keep the length of hose from the T to the cruise check valve as short as possible.


The difference in vacuum between these two connections methods should not be significant I believe. I used this method on a BMW many years ago and it worked well.


Normally we try to have one port dedicated to the cruise control to ensure good vacuum, but if the method used putting the T into hose B on the photo you sent worked OK, then what I am suggesting connecting between #2 and #3 cylinders will only work more effectively.


This probably would not work on a bike with a small engine because there would not be enough vacuum generated, on small engines you must connect directly to one cylinder, but the Rocket has HUGE engine and so will generate lots of vacuum.


Because our laws do not require it, I have never seen a charcoal canister fitted to a bike. Bikes in Australia don’t have them.


Any info we have on them comes from customers like you.


Best regards,


Frank Guymer

Director

^^^ That is pretty much what I suggested
Whether you plug the disconnected hose, or remove it & plug the port, is the same thing.
Regarding connecting close to the throttle bodies, it makes no difference - pressure should be essentially the same.

Thanks. Seems,like my questions to him has triggered their thought process too. Apparently theybhave not had many come through with the emissions cannister.

According to my Triumph dealer all the bikes he is getting now come with it.