Making a Rocket look like this...

[TriumPhil]

Cough, cough (BS) cough, cough.
I have run off with THREE different VTX 1800 from a dead stop through 5th and I am 3 w and 0 l.

You can cough all you like, Steve. You are not the average rider and it's safe to assume that many of your recent rides are equally, cough, cough, non-average.

 

[mattmillme]

Matt not sure if your still seriously looking for ideas after us Idiots gave you a hard time but I thought I'd give you a link to a place that make some different bodywork parts for the R3

http://www.carbondryjapan.com/cart/catalog/default.php?cPath=25_29

Thank you very much, I love the link. Some of those parts look very nice on the R3.

 

[1olbull]

You can cough all you like, Steve. You are not the average rider and it's safe to assume that many of your recent rides are equally, cough, cough, non-average.

Can not argue with that, Amigo.
I be curious if your scoot is a 240, 225 or 265 and how it has affected you travel riding and twisties?
The torque is such (even on my stock engine) that control at max lean followed by rapid acceleration out of a tight curve is very twitchy (mind you that this is when $hitting & getting).
I have looked for a throttle with a slower cam to no avail. Makes things way more difficult when just a .125" to .250" arc throttle twist can slip the tire.
This also has me thinking that IF the Carp work does slightly reduce low end torque (as some have reported), it may be a good thing for this???

 

[Steel]

Can not argue with that, Amigo.
I be curious if your scoot is a 240, 225 or 265 and how it has affected you travel riding and twisties?
The torque is such (even on my stock engine) that control at max lean followed by rapid acceleration out of a tight curve is very twitchy (mind you that this is when $hitting & getting).
I have looked for a throttle with a slower cam to no avail. Makes things way more difficult when just a .125" to .250" arc throttle twist can slip the tire.
This also has me thinking that IF the Carp work does slightly reduce low end torque (as some have reported), it may be a good thing for this???

I've never seen a dyno from Carpenter that showed the torque lower than a stock R3 at any RPM. They are closer down low, and pick up after 4000RPM.
I think the misconception is because the dyno usually starts at 3500 rather than 2000 like on the stock motor. But even if it is lower at 2000-3000, that's not the RPM range you will be coming out of a curve. Or at least that's not where I'd be.

 

[1olbull]

I've never seen a dyno from Carpenter that showed the torque lower than a stock R3 at any RPM. They are closer down low, and pick up after 4000RPM.
I think the misconception is because the dyno usually starts at 3500 rather than 2000 like on the stock motor. But even if it is lower at 2000-3000, that's not the RPM range you will be coming out of a curve. Or at least that's not where I'd be.

Seems I didn't explain myself well enough. I shall have to ponder this more in order to do so.

 

[TriumPhil]

Can not argue with that, Amigo.
I be curious if your scoot is a 240, 225 or 265 and how it has affected you travel riding and twisties?
The torque is such (even on my stock engine) that control at max lean followed by rapid acceleration out of a tight curve is very twitchy (mind you that this is when $hitting & getting).
I have looked for a throttle with a slower cam to no avail. Makes things way more difficult when just a .125" to .250" arc throttle twist can slip the tire.
This also has me thinking that IF the Carp work does slightly reduce low end torque (as some have reported), it may be a good thing for this???

Steve, I'm putting about 200 peak rwhp and 175 ft. lbs of peak torque to the rear tire. 12" Progressive shocks on the rear, the taller aspect ratio Exedra Max in the back and B'stone's matching 130 up front seem to keep me fairly well planted powering out of turns and ripping through the twisties. You really don't get on the cams with the Carp packages until around 5,000 RPM which I rarely flirt with under those aforementioned road conditions. Why??? Because I really don't have to and I do want to live to enjoy a ripe older age, like you.

 

[1olbull]

Steve, I'm putting about 200 peak rwhp and 175 ft. lbs of peak torque to the rear tire. 12" Progressive shocks on the rear, the taller aspect ratio Exedra Max in the back and B'stone's matching 130 up front seem to keep me fairly well planted powering out of turns and ripping through the twisties. You really don't get on the cams with the Carp packages until around 5,000 RPM which I rarely flirt with under those aforementioned road conditions. Why??? Because I really don't have to and I do want to live to enjoy a ripe older age, like you.

Excellent dope, Phil! Thanks for responding.
I be thinking that cam profile may be a solution to my concerns.
These is NOT a major issue right now, I just would like it not exacerbated with the addition of 100 horses!

 

[TriumPhil]

... and I would heartily recommend the Michelin Commander II up front to improve turn-in, tracking and lighten up the feel of the beast's heft by some 150-200 pounds, Steve.

 

[IMFASTTOO]

Cough, cough (BS) cough, cough.
I have run off with THREE different VTX 1800 from a dead stop through 5th and I am 3 w and 0 l.

THE 109 is also faster than VTX

 

[1olbull]

... and I would heartily recommend the Michelin Commander II up front to improve turn-in, tracking and lighten up the feel of the beast's heft by some 150-200 pounds, Steve.

Been there-done that.
It lasted just over 4,000 miles!
The Avon Cobra 140 works best so far.
Recently started running a 140 Azaro, school still out . . .