Loosen everything before lifting the bike. Slow, easy torqueing things once the bike is on the stand.

Clean and re-lube

Disasemble, clean, reassemble.
With new pads the bedding procedure makes a big difference. Pads will not work well for 2 to 300 miles. Many loooong easy stops at first. Then the heat treatment stops.
Service both front and back calipers. No scratching the pistons or their beds allowed taking the seals out. Brake fluid makes for a good cleaner. Make sure seals are inserted correctly. Use the lube in the kit. It helps slide the pistons back in and sitting the seals well.
Buy speed bleeders. One set per bike. Do not contaminate the pads or disc surfaces with greasy fingers or dirty rags and such. Brake fluid is a good cleaner
and paint remover.
Cleanliness is braking happiness.
This is a fun easy job. Makes you feel important when you are all done and you brakes work better than ever. Its like cleaning guns.
Find a Clean well lighted bench. Clean rags. Good brake cleaning products and an old toothbrush and QTips. Any brake cleaner can will do. Compressed air and eye protection. Good background music and cold beer. If you run into a corner call Scott Warp99 or Barbagris or even me

That's what I did.
Discs will get hot, both front and back. Use them both. They will turn purple like pipes if they are getting tooo hot. R3 discs develop freeplay in the clock and counterclockwise direction and the wooble direction. Some is OK. Check your brakes integrity function and cleanliness often. The shop just looks to see if you need pads when you change the tires. If they are fancy they will bleed your brakes once a year. Check to see if your pistons are loose and clean, Naaaaah.
EBC Candy. Cheap, beautiful and British. If you'r still not braking after all this, I have no idea what to do.