loss of rear wheel traction when downshifting

When I tried the darkside I found that doing burnouts and not concerned about tire wear was the only advantage of running a car tire.
 
If you want to slow down by downshifting as opposed to brakes or engine braking, you need to match the engine revs with the transmission revs in the lower gear. If you under rev when you blip it the rear wheel takes the force rather than distributing it between the engine (engine braking) and rear wheel. The most extreme example is to just slam it into the lower gear. The rear wheel slows faster than the bike and you skid. In other words, you need to use some engine braking to keep it from skidding.
 
My rear lasted about 3600, could have made 4k before cords, I don't do burn outs and I can downshift correctly. The Metzler just doesn't hold up well to abuse on hot roads in hot weather on very abrasive roads.

That said, downshifting so sloppy that the rear tire skids sound more like just bad clutch control. Don't just let the clutch, slow your release a little bit, or learn the match rpm to next gear.

Hell, I don't even get traction loss when I ride around doing clutch less downshift's and those are far more jerky than even 1/2 asset clutch wrk.
 
My rear lasted about 3600, could have made 4k before cords, I don't do burn outs and I can downshift correctly. The Metzler just doesn't hold up well to abuse on hot roads in hot weather on very abrasive roads.

That said, downshifting so sloppy that the rear tire skids sound more like just bad clutch control. Don't just let the clutch, slow your release a little bit, or learn the match rpm to next gear.

Hell, I don't even get traction loss when I ride around doing clutch less downshift's and those are far more jerky than even 1/2 asset clutch wrk.
WHY would you do clutchless down shifts you should always use the clutch when shifting up or down .
 
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