Keyless Ignition Mod HOW TO WITH PICS

bennyp38 said:

.... It has Red (+), black (-) and 2 white wires which go to your device.... on your diagram would i connect 1 white wire to pin 86 on first relay (per your diagram) and the other white wire to kill switch and that would complete the circuit...

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Thanks for link - OK , here is the diagram for th switch from that:

So - connect one of the whites together with the red to constant power source (this will be same as the wire tapped off the White/Blue going to the Primary relay pin 30).
Then the other wire goes via a diode to the relay coil pin 86; then you take a new wire and connect between the Kill/Run switch output and connect this via a second diode to the same relay coil pin 86

If you want another level of security you can connect the ground (black wire) of the remote box to the side-stand switch - then it will only activate after you have raised the stand. (you can put the stand down again if you want after turning on ignition). Or you can use the clutch switch - that however would involve pulling the clutch while operating the button, much more awkaward.
Or just leave the black hard-wired to ground system if you don't want/need that additional level.





If it was me, I would put the diodes along with an internal jumper inside the remote box itself and wire as shown below:



p.s. Reminder - When only two relays are used you must connect the red & blue wires wires at the keyswitch connector together to complete the parking light circuit

DEcosse... You are an absolute Saint.. If I am ever in your neck of the woods lunch is on me mate.. Thanks you again so much. I'll keep you posted on how it goes..

Sorry about this DEcosse, just one more question.. In your new diagram i just need to confirm wire colors to tap into with the 2 relay setup please. Are the color of the wires on your new diagram that i tap into for the relays resemble the colors on the Key switch loom..?

Yes - the ones on key-switch loom - the two you join are the Blue & the Red.
That was assuming removing the actual key-switch and salvaging the connector/harness to still utilize the OEM main harness interface.
Keyswitch -> Main Harness
White -> White/Blue
Brown -> Blue/Yellow
Yellow -> Green
White/Black -> Orange
White/Green -> Orange/Green (& Black/Blue)
Red -> Red/Orange
Blue -> Red/Blue

If connecting to the main harness, you can actually find all of those wires* at the Fuse Panel, where you can conveniently tap onto them at the rear of the bike, where it will be easier to mount the relays and control box.

* with exception of the Orange/Green - however you can also find that at the rear - either at the indicator relay behind right side cover, or at the rear brake switch input

Relay 1
30 - run wire to connect to White/Blue at Fuse 2 output; also connect the red wire from control box to this relay terminal
87 - run wires from this terminal to splice to the Green wire at Fuse 5 Input and to the Blue/Yellow wire at Fuse 9 Input (note that you must get the correct side of the Fuse for these two wires!!!)
86 - white wire from box as per latest drawing
85 - Ground

Relay 2
30 - run wire to splice to Orange wire at Fuse 4 Output;
87 - run wire from this terminal to splice to the Orange/Green wire at the Indicator Relay
86 - white wire from box as per latest drawing
85 - Ground

Jumper - Run a wire to splice between the Red/Orange wire at Fuse 10 to the Red/Blue at Fuse 8. Alternatively you can just remove the those two wires from the key-switch connector (main harness side) and just join them together.
A third option as I look again, would just be to extend the link between the 8 & 9 fuses over to the 10 fuse also (probably easier/cleaner!)

(Note I already show the jumper connected between the Red/Orange & Red/Blue)




Don't know if you have access to PosiTaps; those are perfect for tapping onto existing wires causing minimal invasion.

http://www.posi-lock.com/posiplug.html

You are THE MAN d'ecosse,worked perfect for me.Thanks.

DEcosse you have outdone yourself. WOW..!! Thank you so much, Elctrical work to me is like Quantum physics...haha But you have made it easy for the everyday bloke to attempt such a job with confidence mate. Thank you again..

Just FYI - ordered this switch kit off Ebay, lots of choices, but this one is allegedly waterproof, which I thought was a plus, and comes with 2 remotes for $20

http://www.ebay.com/itm/181105530362?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649

Well, that one is a closed latched switch rather than momentary which means you have to turn it off, as well as on initially - it won't shut down off the kill switch like my latching relay design unless the remote is first turned off. It's only 5A (per channel) so you can't use it to switch directly, you still need power relays.
The momentary one, for me is ideal as it is only required to initially set my latch design, which then remains on independently of the remote switch.

DEcosse said:

Well, that one is a closed latched switch rather than momentary which means you have to turn it off, as well as on initially - it won't shut down off the kill switch like my latching relay design unless the remote is first turned off. It's only 5A (per channel) so you can't use it to switch directly, you still need power relays.
The momentary one, for me is ideal as it is only required to initially set my latch design, which then remains on independently of the remote switch.

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Ok, I'm completely lost. The $5 toggle switch currently wired in turns it on and off, this won't? I have a relay, never assumed a remote switch would be wired directly anyway. ???????????????????/

Well it will work .......
- just like your toggle switch however you are going to switch it off, as well as just switching it on.
That means accessing the remote to do that.
With my design with the diode-latching relay, using the momentary switch is simply more convenient, because you only have to use the remote to initially set the latch, not to drop it, which only requires the Kill switch.
If you use your remote and try to incorporate the diode feedback latch, turning off the Kill will not turn it it off completely, only the ignition circuit, because the switch itself will still be live so you must use the remote to turn it off
i.e.with your unit the remote will indeed, as you say, function just like your manual switch, you use the remote to turn it on and the remote again to turn it off.

With the one bennyp38 bought, adding the two diodes, you only need the remote to initially turn the relays on - then can be be put away in pocket - when you 'kill' the bike, no need to to re-access the remote, just Kill and walk away. (if you turn the Kill back to Run, however, the relays will not reset until the remote is pressed again, upon return)

So yes - that switch you got Marky Mark will work with a non-latching relay(s) but is just a little more inconvenient that you have to access the remote to turn it off again.
It's not 'wrong' just could be functionally 'better' (IMO) if a momentary switch and the addition of two simple 99c diodes.