Is it really worth it to remove the secondary butterflies?

If you ever plan on drag racing and want something like lauch control via software control in the ECU only done by Tune boy you will need the secondarys so you can hold wide open throttle at the line with the clutch pulled in and yet only have 3000 rpms until you let her loose. SO I would say it depends on what you are planning. If you take them out I would definetly keep them and the screws for later incase you decide to go that route.

Thanks Hanso. I appreciate the response.

The only clarification I need to make is that the GIPro only opens the secondaries if you have the original Triumph tune for the the stock exhaust. In the stock tune, the secondaries open all the way in 3-5th so when the GIPro "fools" the bike into thinking it is in 3rd, the secondaries open. When you load the Triumph TORs tune, it closes the secondaries the same in all gears, 3rd included so you never have the secondaries open all the way until 4500rpm or more. That's why you would need to remove them or add Tuneboy to open them. So my question is - when I remove the secondaries, will I need to remap the PC5 due to the added air? I think so.

I had the GIPRO when I had stock exhaust and it had much better "jump" than after I changed the to TORs.

warp9.9 said:

If you change A/F in areas that were originally higher say up in the 14's you ecu is taking the amount of air programed in the Ftables calulating a new amout of fuel to add and squirting a hole bunch in. it could be making it run rich as hell in which case it will fall on its face. I suggest you put the original tune back in first and see if it makes a difference in the way it runs then we can go from there.

Are you on the .com site?

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Scott,

I am not on the dot com site but I guess I will have to make an account. I didnt even realize the site existed.

I will talk to him tomorrow night to see where a/f ratios were altered. Both bikes are currently at the tuners waiting for delivery of new air filters. Any day now. Ill be sure to report back with charts as soon as I bring her home.

ROCKET415 said:

Scott,

I am not on the dot com site but I guess I will have to make an account. I didnt even realize the site existed.

I will talk to him tomorrow night to see where a/f ratios were altered. Both bikes are currently at the tuners waiting for delivery of new air filters. Any day now. Ill be sure to report back with charts as soon as I bring her home.

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I think its a good idea to be on both sites as you will find a lot of people are. Some people have there favorite site and thats ok. The advantage of being on both is you sometimes catch something post on one that is not on the other. I never tried counting how many are on both but believe me there is a butt ton.
If you want to use the O2 sensor which is narrow band and is mostly used in th ecruise areas and idleing areas the ECU only hses it in area where the programed A/F is 14.5 to 14.57 to 1. any ration programed out of that area does not use the O2 sensor. (remember narrow band) wide band O2 sensors are used by sytems like Weggo, The Auto tune, and inovate. there are probably more out there but I just don't know of them. So with the O2 sensor on if you do not want it to read a particular area that it was programed for you anly have to change the A/F on the map to 14.49:1 technically. Likewise but don't do this it is only an example 14.58 will not be read useing the O2 sensor in th eECU it will only take the amount of air in the particular cell adn use the programmed A/F ratio to calculate the amount of fuel to squirt. Soemtime what people do not understand is changing the amount of air in a cell or on the trim can be just lieing to the ecu to get the A/F reading in the exhaust to change. If for instalnce a exhaust has a leak in the header gasket and is sucking air in the sensor will show leaner when the actual burn in the cylinder is not. Thats why if you have a multiple piece exhaust its a good idea to make darn sure there is not leaks. One of the best thing about the predator pipe is it is all welded together so if you make sure there is not leaks at the head where it attaches you have a much better chance the the Snesor whether wide band or narrow will be reading correct information. Also one must conside exhaust reverb to much could be adding air in the area of the sensor again giving it false information to feed the ecu. Just some information I thought might do people some good to understand. Again when talking about the predator the welds are very good so chances of leaks anywhere but the heads are slim and none.

CanberraR3 said:

I agree with Phil. I pulled my secondaries with no probs. Still have O2 sensor. My mods are TORs, triples, GIPro, Dobeck and no secondaries. Runs smooth as silk, starts in half second (explodes into life), idles perfectly and goes like a scalded cat. Something else is up.

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Mmmm cat, the other white meat...