OK. Raymond seems happy with his and mine has been in service for over a year with no problems whatsoever so here goes....
Contrary to Flakebuster, there is no way the washer will wrinkle up or come out. It can't. It's attached to the mandrel within the bar end.
You'll need some tools. We all have tools right?
4mm hex key-Folks down south call 'em Allen wrenches. Machinists call them hex keys.
5mm hex key
A small pair of sharp scissors...... I use my Swiss Army knife scissors but if your wife has a pair of small sharp scissors borrow them and don't tell her.
The 50 cent rubber washer (explained in the text.)
The title of the thread is somewhat misleading. My device won't lock the throttle. That's downright dangerous. All it does is
relieve the spring tension the throttle spring applies to the throttle cables and hence, the twist grip. It's a very simple device. Basically, it's a rubber washer 3/16" thick by 1-1/4" outside diameter. It's important that the outside diameter is 1-1/4" because the washer has to make contact with the twist grip barrel without protruding beyond the outside diameter of the twist grip itself. That's one thing I don't care for with the Kayco or Caro or whatever it's called. It has a fluted ring that's actually larger than the twist grip. With my device, nothing protrudes to catch your hand. besides, I'm retired and basically cheap, so with the prices of bling over the top, I like inexpensive solutions and this is
inexpensive to say the least.
You can obtain a washer at Lowes or the hardware store. A pair at Lowes (you'll have an extra one for a spare) costs 95 cents. Single washers at ACE Hardware are 50 cents each.
The inside diameter of the washer will have to be modified somewhat. Most of the washers have a little 1/4" diameter hole in the middle that has to be enlarged to fit over the center post of the stock bar end. Make it a tight fit. I make 4 radial cuts at 90 degrees apart and then cut the diagonally to increase the diameter. Once you get her opened up, slip it on the center post and re-attach the bar end using a 4mm hex key.
This is the important step.
You need to loosen the barrel of the switchgear (where all the switches are) just slightly, using a 5mm hex key and then either slide it toward the centerline of the bike or toward the end of the bar top obtain the tension you desire on the twistgrip. I just loosen one socket cap screw slightly and then apply a twisting motion to the whole assembly to move it. You don't want to move it much. A slight movement will have a big effect.
I like mine set so there is easy movement in the twist grip but you may prefer it somewhat tighter. The 50 cent Flipmeister makes it a joy to ride on long trips as the throttle spring on the Rock will eventually cause your fingers to become numb. With the Flipmeister installed, you can momentarily release the throttle grip while in motion without the throttle snapping closed. An added bonus that I found out quite accidentally on the trip back from Nashville is that if you are going along and for some reason you want the throttle to instantly return to an idle, all you have to do is grip the bar end and apply a slight downward twist. The throttle will instantly snap closed.
I better add that people do asinine things. In no way am I responsible for your actions with the Flipmeister. Ride and act responsibly. You are all grown up and mature, I think. You put it on, you use it and it's your responsibility.
The first picture is the throttle before you put the FlipMeister on.
The second picture is the end of the handlebar with the bar end removed using a 4mm hex key.
The third picture is the unmodified washer and a washer slid over the mandrel that is inside the bar end.